Some Observations

It's the little things that count...here's a few things I have noticed since I've been back in the US:

Vending Machines - Where are they when you just need a little can of coffee or some water? Seriously something MN should consider.

Garbage Cans - They are everywhere! It's so...convenient!

Public Restrooms - I used a public restroom in Honolulu Airport and was happy when the first open stall was a western. And then I realized... they're all westerns! They also have paper towels... I am almost ready to take the cloth out of my purse.

Smoking - The state-wide ban on smoking in public places starts this fall, but it's already in full-effect in the cities. It's nice to come home from a restaurant or night out and not smell like it. It also seems like a lot less people smoke in public here... at least compared to the people you see on the street in Japan.

Cell phones - Cheap and easy. I've been using it to call internationally... and it's almost as cheap as my landline.

Talking - Wow. Americans talk a lot and are not shy about it. I made a lot of friends on my Hawaiian adventure (on the bus, at the luau, at the hotel...you name it).

Fashion - My 'boring' clothes from Japan suddenly became really normal again. While some may raise eyebrows at certain styles in Japan, I have to give the country props for it's risks and ambition in this area. Polkadots, ruffles, stillettos and all. Also... Japan may be more obsessed with the major luxury labels (LV, Gucci, etc), but America is definately driven by consumerism. We have so much stuff... and so many stores! The Japanese are definately more simple...

Diversity - In Hawaii, I realized the 'touristy places' here would probably be considered the 'gaijin' places in Japan... but mostly because they were filled with people who were only visiting for a short time (not those living in the country for a short time - which may be years and years).

Minnesotan - I talked to some American friends from Japan on the phone tonight, and apparently, the Minnesoooota accent is slowly creeping back into my speech. I better watch it, or there are going to be about 850 kids running around Kansai, Japan talking about how much they love drinking melk and going for booooat rides:-P

Transportation - My big plans to "ride my bike everywhere" have already failed, but it's crazy how reliant we are on cars here. I wouldn't even consider taking the bus if I needed to get somewhere fast, but the train is such a reliable option in Japan.

Change in Plans

It's only Tuesday and a lot has happened so far. So I had a minor dental emergency after going to the dentist on Monday morning. I won't go into all the details, but let's just say I unexpectantly lost a tooth and need some unforseen, minor surgery. I was pretty upset (and maybe a little dramatic) after the incident happened, which was probably not the best start to my holiday back in Minnesota. Moreso, I was worried about having the surgery done in Japan when I got back because I would have to wait several weeks to start the process and there is a language barrier with a lot of medical professionals there (something that becomes very serious when you are making permanent changes to your face and mouth).

So, I did what I could and I went into action, soliciting help and advice from family, friends (both here and abroad), coworkers and the insurance company on what to do about the surgery. It's amazing how quickly people got back to me and what they were able to help me with. And, after weighing all the options... I have decided to do the surgery tomorrow and stay in America a few days longer. It means I will have to take some of the vacation time that I was hoping to use for India this year and miss several classes at school (which I feel awful about). At the same time, I feel a lot more comfortable now that the situation is resolved and that it will be done here.

This dental business was obviously a huge surprise and has overshadowed my trip to far, but I have gotten to do a few other cool things. I finally met my best friend's boyfriend, whom I adore, and got to go for a run around my beloved Lake Calhoun (something I have been yearning for...and the weather is perfect right now). I also made a trip to the farmer's market, got my hair cut (short!), went for coffee with Jess, took a tour at a historic landmark with my mom this afternoon (Burwell House in Minnetonka), and went to a private fundraisor for Al Franken in my neighborhood this evening (met him briefly - check out his website/platform!).

I really don't feel like I have done much since I arrived at home, even though it probably doesn't sound that way from my list. I think it's mainly because there are so many people I miss and want to see, but I haven't talked to or seen most of them yet. Minnesota just feels comfortable and easy to come back to, like I am still living in Minneapolis and have all the time in the world... but I know that's not true. In a way, the surgery is both a blessing and a curse. I have lost probably 3 or 4 days to it (not to mention vacation time and the costs).... but I am lucky to have my family and friends around when this bad surprise came my way.

Japan is a good thing for me and I am happy to go back, but this trip home is making me realize how much I also have here. Anyways, I'm hitting jetleg and really need to try to get some rest.

Jetlag: the first night HOME

I'm in Minnesota right now and so happy to be here. It is, however, 4am and I'm wide-awake, so I am obviously encountering my first bout of insomnia (aka jetlag), too. I took a few sleeping pills, so I should be able to go back to bed soon, but I think my body is confused by the TWO red-eye flights I did this week (leaving at 10:35 and 10:55 pm), not to mention the vast time differences between each place (14 hours to Japan and 5 to Hawaii from here).

Home Sweet Home

I am still glad I decided to break up the trip with my 3 days in Hawaii. Home is "home" and it feels good to be here (Hwy 169 is nice to see after a long trip away - felt the same thing when I saw it after folk school), but there are small things I have realized I am not adjusted to and I can't imagine how overwhelmed I could have felt without the buffer. Not to mention the simple relaxation (like travel detox) I received from my 3 days on the beach. I am staying at my parents house for most of the time, but might spend a few nights in Minneapolis with friends. My brother is at college, so it's a lot more quiet here, and now we have a cat (long story - used to live at our farm), which is a nice addition to the chinchilla. I love pets.

Culture Shock

Other differences that hit me? Hmm...this keyboard is really hard to type on (used to my Japanese PC at work) and especially how much people (in general - not just friends) seem SO Minnesotan... I fit right in. It's funny coming from a place where I look and speak really different than the norm and am literally called outsider (gaijin) as a foreigner. Everything seems so convenient. My car is here and I can drive around, too (used to driving on the right again from Hawaii!). Being able to just TALK to my parents and friends whenever, and just turning on the TV and finding a lot of stations I want to watch (and can understand) are other small things I feel grateful for right now. There is a certain charm in learning another language and not understanding, but man, it's nice to see MTV whenever I want;)

The Week Ahead

I just got in and haven't done much so far, but tomorrow is a big day of errands (dentist, haircut, bank, calling people...etc, etc). I'm going to a dinner with Al Franken on Tuesday with Jess ("because I'm good enough, I'm strong enough, and -doggone it - people like me"....SO FUNNY), the haircut with Megs, and doing dinner with Kristin tomorrow. Kristin actually picked me up from the airport (in her new CRV - it's so cute!!), but I spent the evening with my parents, just catching up. My mom and I also went to The Marsh (a wellness center for the mind - basically a gym/spa like a co-ed onsen with swimsuits) since it was Guest Day and she could bring me along for free. The hottub and therapy pool (huge, warm pool with classical music playing for meditation) were wonders after sitting on planes for 11 hours earlier in the day.



I need to try to catch more ZZs (it's about 4:30 am now...), but I'm doing well and excited to be home, even if it is a little surreal. I wrote a Hawaii post on the plane, but it's on my Mac, so I might not get it up for a while. More coming once I'm a bit more settled. Cheers!

Hawaii: Today's the Day!

I am so excited to leave for my trip tonight that I can hardly sit still in my chair at work right now! I'm trying to finish a lesson plan about travel, actually, to use when I get back. I was hoping to do two lesson plans before going, but, well... it happens.

I am finally all packed and ready to go. I've been on the scale, off the scale, on the scale again (to weigh my bags), and repacked about 25 times this week, but both of my suitcases (mostly full of things I don't use, presents and Japanese "heirlooms") are exactly at the weight limit and ready to fly. I am not leaving until 10:35 tonight (strange time, eh?), so I still have the morning and afternoon free, but I decided not to bike to work since it might rain today.

I hung out with some of the new guys in the community last night: Caohime - pronounced "Queeva" from Ireland, Brayden from Iowa, Tu from NZ, AJ from Cape Cod, Tam & Clayton ("Clam") from the states, and Craig from Ohio. We just went to Sushi Ro and the re-use store (very kitchy in a fabulous way). They are a lovely bunch... we have an IFA event the day I get back to Japan, and I think I'm actually looking forward to coming back and seeing them all (plus Kel) right away. After dinner, Miwa came over to do some stuff on my computer and gave me some guidance on what to pack. Lowkey but nice evening.

This will be my last post from Japan, but I am really looking forward to this trip. It'll be nice to be at home (although I anticipate it to be busy, too), but the few days in Hawaii are a bonus vacation. If nothing else, escaping the heat is worth it. I'll try to post from home, but until next time, take care and enjoy the summer!

Japanese Fashion: The Underwear Story

I have a second little tidbit for today, a story Miwa told me while we were watching a movie last night. It's pretty random, but funny, so I thought I would share. Don't ask how in the world we got on this topic... I think it came up when Cameran Diaz was holding up her underwear (in The Holiday) and Miwa asked if I knew that people didn't used to wear undwear in Japan. Haha, typical randomness.

Ok, I know there are a lot of cotton layers that go under a kimono (with a similar shape), but I am not quite clear over all of them, so I asked Miwa to clarify. Miwa explained that women wore nothing under their kimonos (no bloomers or anything) in the old days, until one tragic event changed Japan's fashion history forever. Here's how it goes:

I can't tell you when it happened, but the changes were apparently sparked by a large fire at a big department store in Tokyo, sometime in the last century. The store was rather large and modern, but the flames started at the lower levels of the building, and people moved up (rather than out the windows) to escape them. Well, after a while, there was a large gathering of women trapped at the top of this building. They finally realized, a bit late, that their only way of escaping the fire was going out a window, so they tied their obi (kimono belts) together, creating a make-shift ladder to climb down from the upper-storey window. Well, unfortunately, the obi is the one thing that fastens a kimono (holding the top and under-layers together), so once the women had sacrificed their belts, they knew they would be showing the crowds below a lot more than an act of bravery if they attempted to climb down. No underwear and basically just open robes...you get the idea.

Rather than facing the embarrassment of flashing the entire crowd below, several women at the top chose death by fire. News of the event spread across the country, and not long after, underwear had been introduced to the Japanese populace, sparing fellow & future Japanese women of a similar fate.

I've been through Google, trying to verify this tragic story, but I haven't found much. There is a huge fashion museum in Kobe that I've been trying to get to since I arrived (esp since the building itself is as elaborate as the Guggenheim). I hope to pay a visit to the museum this fall, so I'll keep you posted if I see any follow-up there.

Americans Take on the Big Rice Bowl

Slow morning at work so far. Talked to a girlfriend from home for a while yesterday morning, and she couldn't understand why they have us come in when there is nothing to do. It's actually a good lesson on Japanese culture; just being present often means more than what you contribute. It ties into the group mentality structure (being part of that group) and also explains why students here aren't really eager to single themselves out and answer questions in class (they are shy, but BEING in class is more important than "participating"). It is also the same reason why it's OK for people to sleep at work, something it took me a while to grow accustomed to. It's not that the 'sleepers' are inneffient, but rather, that they are present at work if they are needed and they do their job when they need to. If they sleep during the gaps, it's ok. The group mentality (vs. individualism) is really different my culture in a lot of ways, but that doesn't make it wrong. It just makes for more free time and slower works days for me at times;)

So I had dinner with my friend Chris from Honolulu last night and he gave me a lot of tips for the trip this week. I am getting really pumped! I had decided to stay in a hostel, but after realizing how much stuff I am going to have (including my laptop), I changed the reservation from a dorm room to a single. Despite my better judgment, I also decided I'm going to go to the uber-touristy Polynesian Cultural Center night show and luah (sp?) on Thursday. It'd be good to get a little local culture in. I was also going to do a morning trip to swim with the dolphins, but might just spend my time swimming and going running around Diamond Head. I am anticipating these three days are going to be simply blissful!

I don't have much else to tell for now, but I wanted to share a random thought with you guys. I saw this story when I opened my internet browser and the Yahoo homepage popped up: Average Cook Battles Rice. That's a headline? I just had to say something... I am comforted in knowing that I'm not the only American who thought rice was not that common and easy to make (at least before moving here). But I also think I've been here too long - I now know this staple food really is about the easiest thing you can make! Maybe that is what the 'expert cook' that wrote the article is trying to teach you, but it was strange to me that cooking rice would be a headline.

Dating Column Update

As some of you know, I write a monthly dating column in a local expat newsletter. It's nothing fancy (I'm no Carrie Bradshaw...), and I obviously don't know everything, but it's been a good way to explore some different aspects of the Japanese culture and work on my English writing skills while I'm here. And while it's been fun enough to do over the last year... I wouldn't mind handing it over to a new, fresh-faced dating expert.

So, good news to announce... I think the end of my reign as Hyogo's Dating Queen (uh, yeah right...) may be coming to a close!! This hasn't been the best year to have taken on a dating column (ahem.... yeah), so I expressed interest in passing on the column to someone new to my editor a few months ago. Well, it takes time and I still have a few article ideas on the drawing board that I wouldn't mind working on... but it looks like I might have finally found a sucessor. Better yet... it's a guy. I think I'm going to do a few articles, then maybe we'll do a joint one (like go on a group date to do a "he said, she said" type of thing) before he takes over completely.

I realize I am going to miss doing the articles a bit, but I am really, really excited about this new guy. He seems funny, genki, speaks a lot of Japanese, and he's lived here before (and had Japanese girlfriends), so the dude may be able to give a little more grounded info. Kanpeki yo.

Wakawakashimasu!

The Weekend Review - As The Storm Rolls in

It's storming outside right now. I was just over at Tu's house and we watched the lightening for a little while. There are still surpisingly multiple planes in the sky, bravely (or naively?) making their way to the Kansai International Airport. This ironically means they are flying straight into the firey backdrop of flashing electric, bolts of lighting and red, rich clouds. This is one of the only big thunderstorms I have experienced here in Japan so far, but it really does seem more beautiful than it has at home. The clouds take on a reddish, warm hue that I have never seen coupled with this weather before. It's almost enchanting. Like the breathtaking sunsets, however, I think some of that pristine beauty could be attributed to the polution....

This has been a long weekend, mostly due to the fact that it was characterized by a lot of 'welcome' events for people that just moved here, which also generally means (not surprisingly for Japan) copious amounts of drinking (or at least the presence of a lot of alcohol). Now, it's true that you don't have to drink at these events and there's always going to be a substitute for the drivers (strict no tolerance laws in Japan!), but drinking is still a huge part of this culture. Because it's also a natural social lubricant and Japanese people are stereotypically shy, it makes sense that there would be more of it at welcome parties, too. I wonder if that means my hangover can be considered culture shock? Hmm.

Anyways, FRIDAY: I biked to school again, but ended up doing some correcting and then talking to Mori Sensei for most of the afternoon, so I left much later than usual. The little bag I keep my coffee cans in under my desk (they're empty, but I keep it for recycling) attracted some ants in the staff room, which I felt really bad about, but provided a little excitement in the morning.

On the bikeride home after school, I stopped at a new store Nozaki Sensei told me about, Shot, to look for presents for home. They have pretty good "engrish" t-shirts for about $5, which is good to know, but I didn't buy anything. Unfortunately, this little side-errand meant I didn't have much time to get ready before dinner. Somehow I managed, though, and I headed over to Harimacho with Tu (my new neighbor) somewhere around 7pm. That's when all the weekend mayhem began....

When we arrived, there were about 12 other guests, all in in Harimacho to attend a "Chuhai-Tasting Party" that my friends Tam and Clayton were hosting. The taste-testing party was a good idea & good way to try a lot of different flavors of the stuff (especially for the new guys) with less of an ill-effect (ie getting wasted after 3 or 4 cans, since the portions were small). We did blind-testing (blank cups so didn't know what flavor it was) and Clayton made scoring sheets, which I abandoned after a few rounds. I still think chuhai is dangerous, but I had a good time and it was a fun crowd. Tam made salmon sushi and people brought food, too. I made two little dessert pizzas (been trying to get rid of that Betty Crocker frosting for a while...) and contributed my leftover Twizzlers. We went to karaoke in Befu afterwards, but I was still so tired from the night before, so I left before most of the gang (probably somewhere around 1am). Thank goodness I did...barely made it into my PJs!

SATURDAY: I spent most of the next day in bed, actually, nursing my head and cursing myself for knowing better than to consume so much chuhai, but doing it anyways. I had a meeting for the charity committee in Sannomiya at 3pm, so I got myself together and headed out for that. That evening, we had another Beer Garden Welcome Party (basically all-you-can-eat/drink on the roof of a building) at SOGO Beer Garden in Kobe. I hit up the food before even touching the beer machines as a general rule, but it's a little assanine how crazy things can get at these three-hour-long, drink-as-much-as-you-can (and get your money's worth), outdoor events. And I'm not just referring to the foreigner's that go; they're very common and popular in Japanese culture... but I will admit they'd be nice to have at home instead of the exlusive roof tops and expensive bars in Uptown. After the beer garden (ran into a LOT of new expat faces, and happy to see some familiar ones, too), we headed to a local club (really like a little pub with a DJ) near Sannomiya Station. The place was so packed that you couldn't walk, so I spent most of the time out on the balcony.

As the evening wore on, I watched my clock as the possibility of taking last train home - and then to Osaka - slipped away. I was originally planning on going to Osaka to meet up with Jane and a group of our Japanese friends that night, but I wasn't exactly sure where in Osaka they were when it was time for me to go (been to the place, but not sure if I could find it again), I was not in the best state for searching for a place on my own... and then one of the worst things that can happen to you when you are out happened... my shoe broke! I was wearing my uniform black flip-flops, when the toe-strap came loose. I hobknobbled around Kobe for a while, momentarily barefoot,before I finally ran into a friend from Akashi who was kind enough to locate a knife from a local establishment and fix my shoe (by cutting a new hole). I had obviously had enough of the night at this point (my feet were black), and had been informed that most of the regular hotels we would normally crash at were full, so I headed just home with a group of friends that live within cabbing distance from the city center.

It took me over 2 hours to get home from their place to mine this morning (or afternoon, really, once I finally got up and had gotten some food into my system), so I missed both the spring roll-making class that I really wanted to go to, as well as the beach birthday party for another friend (that, at least, was due to the storm). The entire Saturday night outing lasted over 24 hours, and that was the second night in a row (preceeded by Obon). It's fun to have a crazy night out here and there, in a lot of ways, but I don't think I can do this anymore... I'd much rather spend a night in my own little "cottage" (as I call my cozy little apartment) and spare myself the misery of the next day (not just the hangover... the lack of sleep as well). Or not miss stuff like the harumaki (spring roll) class. Maybe I'm still just cranky because it's been a long day, though.

Anyways, that was essentially my weekend. Wow, I wish I had something more to report than a social agenda, but it's summer and we all have a lot of free time, so I guess we're making the most of it and welcoming the new foreigners in our community the right way. It has, however, been interesting to observe and see the new people's reactions to a new culture (especially Japanese) and adjusting to a new place. It makes me a little nastalgic for last year, but it also makes me realize how much I've learned and grown in the last year. Many of the people I met don't speak any Japanese, for example, which is exactly where I was at that point this time last year. Still don't know much, but at least I can get around... and am a little less clueless.

I think I need to get to bed (to get some real sleep), but hope the rest of the weekend goes well for all of you! I have Japanese class and am going to Tam's house for dinner tomorrow, but I'm going to try to keep it low-key for the rest of the week. Only four more days to Hawaii yo!

*Chuhai is essentially a type of Japanese alcohol that closely resembled a cooler in a can (rusbrus er kanskje d beste beskrivelsen?), with about the same alcohol content as beer. The lemon flavor has even more, for some strange reason. I think chuhai can actually be a little dangerous because you can't taste the liquor at all, so it's easy to drink a few quickly before realizing how drunk you've become. It also gives you a wicked hangover (at least for me)! Joe actually thought the cans I had in the fridge were juice when he was here (I said he needed to try chuhai, but didn't explain what it was) and was having them for breakfast for a while, thinking they were juice spritzers.

Obon in Kyoto

This week is a national holiday called Obon, or the Bon Festival. It's a time when most Japanese people return to their hometowns and visit the graves of their ancestors and family, paying respect to the dead. The office at my school has been almost deserted the entire week.
I was invited by one teacher to spend the holiday with her family (since I don't have one here and it's a tradition to do so), which I was grateful for, but declined; deciding to spend the last night of the "festival" in Kyoto instead. My purpose in going to Kyoto was to see the famous daimonji, or giant Japanese characters that are lit-up on the hills of Kobe. The event is known as Kyoto's "Gozan no Okuribi", or basically the bonfires lit during the Obon festival.
The Wired Cafe in Osaka with Ms. Jane
After school, I headed directly to Osaka to meet Jane for lunch. We did a little shopping (actually resisted the urge to buy things since I'll be going home next week) and chatted for a few hours at a really great cafe in Umeda called Wired. The wrap and tomato soup were some of the best food I've had in Japan, the atmosphere was great (a lot of smoker's though), and it wasn't that packed or expensive for being in Osaka. I'll see Jane again on Saturday night (birthday party for one of our Japanese friends after the beer garden), but that will be the last time before she goes back to England, so it was fun to catch up and hang out together for one of the last times in Japan!
Minnesota Gals (and a Seattle Boy) in Kyoto
After dinner, I headed to Osaka Station and met Brianne on a JR train to Kyoto. A lot of my friends are out of the country right now, but I was shocked that more expats in my area didn't want to join us for this famous event. None of the other Kobe people (where Brianne lives) were apparently interested in going Kyoto for Obon either...(can you believe it?!), . The two of us were going to check out the festivities together and were on our way, when we got a text from one other straggler from Kobe named Kevin. So, once we got to Kyoto Station, Brianne and I went to Tourist Information to get a map of the city (I've probably gotten 15 this year...oops) and then met Kevin at Starbucks.
Gozan no Okuribi
There are 6 main hills with symbols that they light up with giant bonfires on August 16th (two are together, so really 5), but they are spread out around the city and light in intervals of 10 minutes, so it's not possible to see all of them. Kyoto is not that large of a city, so it's possible to see four of the hills (including the most famous "dai" character, above Ginkakuji Temple) from a bridge near Demachiyanagi Station, over the Kamo River. It was either that (Higashiyama Area) or the complete other side of town (Arashiyama area...which did have a festival with floating lanterns), so we chose to take four symbols over one at the Tourist Information Office's advice.
To save time (and keep out of the massive crowds - more foriegners I have seen in one place for a LONG time!!), we took the subway over to the area. My friend Serene's brother also just moved to Kyoto (they grew up here and he's working in the city), so I called him, as well. He and some friends were also heading towards the bridge, so I kept an eye out for them once we got there, but it was so packed, that I soon realized the chances of running into them were slim.
We found a good spot on the bridge around 7:40pm and just watched children run around on the river bank below us (you can walk along the river path and a lot of people were sitting there) until the first symbol was torched. At 8pm sharp, the crowd gasped as little-by-little, the character for "big" ("dai") appeared in the distant hills, now so dark, that it appeared as if the symbol were floating in air. Everyone feverishly took pictures for a while, until the excitement wore down and everyone turned their focus to the north, waiting for the next symbol (meaning "ho", or law) appeared.
We had heard rumors of a good restaraunt where you can see the symbols, so we decided to move from where we were standing. We actually ended up walking along the river, which was a nice release from the intense grip of the crowd and had a breeze, but we ended up only seeing one more symbol (saped like a sailboat, near Shodenji Temple). The flames were starting to wear out and people were leaving, so we also decided to search for a good place to get a bite. After a lot of exploring (and a bit of getting lost), we finally found an Israeli restaraunt called Falafal Garden. The portions were Japanese-size (smaller than would be acceptable at home), but the food was amazing. I was surprised to find Baba Genoush on the menu (one of my favorite foods), but found it funny to see that the pronunciation was wrong in the Japanese translation (they use katakana, so essentially the original pronunciation). Sort of like Engrish, on a Hewbrew menu. There were also a lot of foreigners in the place (many of which I think were students), and it was funny how tempting it was to eavesdrop into their conversations, as if eavesdropping into English is a rare luxury.
On the Road Again....
After dinner, we were all stuffed and tired from doing a lot of walking and battling crowds, so we took the train back to the station (cutting it a little close on time) and headed in our separate directions. I had a lot of fun, and while I didn't really get any pictures to do the festival justice, it was a great experience. I'm glad I saw the mountains (with symbols) that I did, but I would definately head over to the Katsura River for the floating lanterns next time. I'm not sure why that festival is not famous (Obon in Kyoto certainly is), but that gives a glimmer of hope that it would be less crowded!

Note To Self - Flying Home...

A little update on the NWA systemwide airfare sale I wrote about earlier. If you have the flexibility to travel whenever (leaving at the drop of a hat), extra FF miles and you want to go to Asia, definately hold out until the end of the summer to buy your tickets. Yes, like now.

It's too late for me to change my tickets now (Grrr...stupid 14-day advance purchase rules), but NWA posted a Cash & Miles Deal:

http://www.nwa.com/features/cmfall07as/

The tickets are HALF as much as what I paid... trying really hard not to be annoyed by this one. I know I'm paying for the convenience and would never have been able to take the time off on such short notice, but I can't help thinking about the opportunity cost of the money I would have saved. Uff.

Evening Blogging Delights

I discovered this random travel blog by a woman who quit her job and traveled the world with her husband in 2006. The FAQ section is interesting: http://sarahlane.typepad.com/sarahtravel

Here's another little recommendation for a blog by another girl living in Japan (or on her way out). I was blown-away by her writing style and experiences. This girl, Sarah Marchildon, and I arrived in Japan at the same time and both worked at public schools this past year, so I've been doing a lot of remiscing looking over her pages tonight. I got a chuckle out of reading about her similar experiences with the dreaded, unwelcomed roaches, and THANK HEAVENS that I have yet to encounter a "geji geji" (although I did Google image it to my better judgement and am now temped to geji geji-proof my apartment in case). I swear the blog is not really all about bugs, though. Check it out: http://sarahmarchildon.blogspot.com/

Anyways, I'm really supposed to be working on my dating article right now (instead I'm looking up blogs about bugs...great, this is probably how Carrie Bradshaw and I differ) and taking a bath before bed. So time to log out. I decided to write about shy boys in Japan for this month's edition, by the way, which led to me Ms. Sarah's webblog, above, actually... loved her entry, "So Many Men, So Few Balls"... but obviously got a little side-tracked.

Just some brain candy. Thought I'd share:)

Just Me and the Retired Folks - Keepin' It Cool.

I've had such a wonderful day today! Very relaxing and satisfying. It's funny, the German student I met in Hiroshima had asked me why in the world I would spend TWO YEARS in my TWENTIES in Japan (basically like it was a waste of time when I should be building a career at home - he was only here for 2 months). I can see his point and I gave him a few good reasons that I stand firmly behind, but another really big one struck me today: THIS really IS taking advantage of my 20s!
I rode my bike back and forth to school today, and then sat in on a new Japanese conversation class with my normal teacher (going to start going to class more than once a week). Afterwards, it was still pretty hot out, so I headed to the local beach and took a nap next to the ocean in the sun, with the waves lulling me to sleep. Tonight I'm just working on my taxes (blah) and writing my next article for my relationship advice column.
While I was at the beach, it struck me: So many people work so hard for so long in order to retire early... to do... well, THIS. I'm so blessed. I feel like I'm learning a LOT about the world, meeting some really amazing people, having a fabulous time (it's given that there'll be culture shock and homesickness at times, but overall it's good), getting paid to indulge in my hobby, have the time to truly position myself for the next big chapter in my life (step in my career)... and I can spend my days at the beach if I want to. Granted, I am getting to an age where it's appropriate to look at marriage, the career, kids, but you don't have to be "at home" to do that.

Anyways, I'm just in a really calm, peaceful mood right now. I will probably sound a little different when I take the big plunge into the application mode soon and am completely freaking out (and I KNOW the next few years at grad school will be intense)... but I'm pretty grateful for my current situation. Someone once told me I might appreciate Japan more and take better advantage of this experience (and extra time!!) because I had worked before; I think they were right.

Ok, off to figure out what in the world I'm going to write about for my next article. Thinking internet dating or cultural differences (how SHY Japanese boys are, for example...). I'm meeting Jane in Osaka and then heading to Kyoto for Obon (when they light up giant symbols with fire in the hills surrounding the city) tomorrow and I also have events Friday and Saturday night, so I might not be able to write again or get pictures up for a little while (might do a Vietnamese spring roll cooking class on Sunday, too....YUM). Enjoy your week(ends) in the meantime & have a lovely evening:)

A Fare Sale?! - You Have Got To Be Joking!

I just got an email from one of my travel agents here about end-of-the-summer bargain fares, so I hopped on NWA's website. Sure enough...Asia Sale! CRAP. Well, I knew there would be a sale (based on the fact that there have been sales for the last 4 years during this time... and that is just the window in which I have been paying attention to airfare between Asia and the US). At first, I was pretty peeved that I stubbornly paid an atronomical amount for my ticket home next week... BUT, then I (stubbornly) checked availability and noticed the tickets for when I need to travel have gone UP another $400. Feeling a BIT better... but still... It's also good to remember that the travel industry is different - ok, crazy - in Japan. It really doesn't pay to wait until the last minute in so many cases. Taking vacation time is a big deal in itself here (so when people travel, they make the most of it), but it seems like Japanese people are willing to pay really high prices relative to what is normal in the US (driving them up for everyone) and, well, the Japanese do have a reputation for international travel. It's definately a different market/model than in American (esp with fewer low cost carriers and the Shinkansen domestically).

Anyways, there are a lot of deals, good through December for those of you lookin' to get out (just a little FYI): http://www.nwa.com/features/systemwidesale2007/

Things are going well otherwise, but I don't know what happned the weather this week. I know it was hot when I came this time last year, but the jump in temperature and humidity is insane this week. It has been over 95 degrees with 75% humidity for the last few days. One of my friends from home didn't believe me that it was hotter here (because Minnesota IS hot), but coupled with the humidity... this weather is an extreme that I didn't know existed! Everyone I know carries a small towel around with them (to wipe the sweat), I have a fan with me at all times, and I have pretty much given up about caring what my hair and make-up look like because they're going to be ruined by the dense air or my profuse sweating anyways. I wish I was kidding.

Despite the heat, however, I biked to school again today and think I'm going to do it tomorrow. It just feels good to be outside and moving around for at least a given almost two-hour rountrip ride. I just can't run as much with the humidity, either, so it's good to get a little exercise in. Most of the buildings here don't have insulation, so it's common for places to use fans instead of air-conditioning, but that is one area I won't comprise in... I live on the top floor of my building, and it's too hot to sleep without it (heat rises). I am crossing my fingers that things have cooled down by the time I get back from the states.

So the ride home yesterday went well, too, by the way. I figured out the best route for getting to/from work, but I didn't get home until after midnight. Don't worry... I didn't get lost. I stopped at Uniqlo (we're getting them in the US, but it's like the Japanese GAP) on my way back, and then met up with Brayden, who just moved here from Okiboji, Iowa (I used to go to Girlscout camp there...random!!). We basically rode around for a few hours, visiting the ancient village & history museum, video store and library, before deciding dinner was imperative. We called up some of the other new guys that just moved here and ended up going to an okonomiyaki place with a group of 5. It was a great time and I have a new favorite flavor of okonomiyaki (modonoyaki - with mochi topping melted in...yuuum). We were having a good time when dinner ended, so we decided to shuffle up the road on our bikes to the irish pub by the JR station (two people in our party were from ireland so it was fitting). After a while, I realized Tam and Clayton had returned from their vacation in Australia, so we made the 15 minute bike ride back to Harimacho, did a round of introductions and chatted with them for a while, before I decided it was time to get home and go to bed.

That's about all for me for now... exciting day of doing taxes tomorrow, though. Yay:-( (had to get an extension until I'd been abroad long enough to qualify for US tax exemption... feels more like procrastination to me...). Goodnight!

Perseid Meteor Showers

The shooting stars last night were beautiful (can't tell you what I wished for though;-)...).

Here's an article about the the annual Perseid meteor shower, that will hit it's peak tonight (Sunday night) for all of you in the US (includes some interesting background info on Laurentius, etc): http://news.yahoo.com/s/space/20070811/sc_space/greatshowperseidmeteorshowerpeakssundaynight

You should really head outside and enjoy it if you can!

The Weekend Review & First Bike Ride to School

I got a phonecall from home around 5am this morning. It's rare for my American friends to call, but when they do, they almost always forget about the time difference. The call was a nice surprise (just missed it - the message woke me up), but I couldn't fall back asleep. I laid in bed for a while and watched the sky turn pink and then the sun rise, but I decided to just get out of bed since it was apparent I wasn't going back to sleep after about an hour.

Since I was up and awake so early, I decided to bike to school today for the first time. It's about a 50-55 minute ride each way, so I usually take the train (which is a 30 minute commute on it's own). I was a little nervous about getting lost so I left around 6:15 (for extra time) and just followed the Shinkansen tracks pretty much the whole way. I've asked my coworkers about biking directions before, and have just been told the trip is "impossible" so I was a little surprised that I didn't get lost along the way and happy that it was not as horribly hot and humid as I expected it to be. I wore Dryfit clothing and brought a change of clothes for when I got to school, but I think I can actually just stay in my biking clothes all day... they're comfy and I'm not too sweaty. We'll see how the afternoon ride back goes, but I might try the ride a few more times this week.

So the end of the weekend went well, too. I spent Sunday at home, mostly getting caught up on uploading and labeling pictures from all my recent trips. I was going to meet Tobs and Trygve for dinner in Osaka, but they were pretty exhausted after their Peace Conference trips (Hiroshima/Nagasaki) and weekend in Okayama (and I didn't want to make the trip to Osaka just to see them for a quick drink), so we agreed we'd just meet up in Oslo (uh, いつか). Trygve leaves this morning, and Tobs and his girlfriend move back this week... sad to miss more time with them, but I really enjoyed the time we had. I know I'll see them again.

Instead of Osaka, my new neighbor, Tu, and I went to the yakiniku (Korean fried BBQ) place down the street. Wow, I really need to brush-up on my yakiniku vocab...did all the ordering and was really wishing I had brought a phrasebook with me. Somehow managed to get dinner, however, and it was pretty delicious. Afterwards, Tu and I walked back to our buildings and got our bikes so I could show Tu the view of the Akashi bridge from the man-made island near our apartment. It was a really clear night, so the view was beautiful and we could see the whole bridge. There was noone around, so we parked our bikes in the middle of the road on the top of the big bridge connecting the island to the mainland, and just sat out and enjoyed the stars. Last night was supposed to be the best night for shooting stars; I saw two of them. At one point, two guys rode by on a scooter. I waved and we started chatting, so they invited us to their BBQ party at the bottom of the bridge. We didn't take them on the offer, but one of the guys rode back with a girl about 15 minutes later and brought Tu and I some beers. It was a pretty random, but a pretty awesome Sunday night. I should probably be hung-over today, but I'm still feeling good (even after the bike ride). I'm also really glad that Tu is my new neighbor...he reminds me a lot of one of my friends from home, Aaron, and I think we're gong to have a lot of fun this year. It's good to have him and Miwa close by.

Now I'm just sitting at my desk in the staff room at school, pretty much alone. Almost noone is here this week due to Obon, a national holiday that people traditionally spend with their family (so most of the staff is taking the week off and visiting their hometowns). They are also going to wax the floors in the staff room and hallway either today or tomorrow, so I might get kicked out soon. I'm going to go check-out the Track practice for something to do... no tennies at school right now, or else I'd probably join.... so that's all for now. Do check out the new albums I just posted, however...the comments should tell a story on their own. Matta ne!

Meiji Mura

Ahh, Meiji Mura. Where do I even begin? I'll start with some background...

Meiji Mura is an open-air museum (meaning you can walk around outside and it recreates a situation) that holds over 60 buildings from the Meiji Era. This is the period in which Japan opened it's doors after hundreds of years of international seclusion, colonizing itself at alarmingly fast rates. If you have ever seen the Last Samurai, it does a good job of depicting some of the changes going on at this time in Japan's history, even though the plot-line itself is obviously fictional. The film partcularly shows how the government and then-emporer Meiji were diligent in importing foreign strategies and theories, bringing in 'experts' to help shape a modern, international Japan. They literally picked and chose from the best of what the world had to offer. The Last Samurai focuses on the military movement (and, yes, Meiji really was when they banished the samurai class and burned down a lot of their castles), but they also brought in world-famous architects and cultural experts to enhance other facets of society. Meiji Mura is a representation of this movement and it's western influence.
While the Meiji period ended less than 100 years ago (1912), there are unfortunately alarmingly few relics and buildings from this period still around; many being destroyed by war and natural distasters. Thus, the museum was created to help preserve several important buildings from this period (1867-1912) that still remain in good condition. They dismantled buildings (some in clusters, almost like little towns) and relocated/re-erected them at a site in Nagoya (where the museum is today). Many of the buildings also include original furnishings, decorations and pictures.
I am obviously a huge fan of the place, but I have to say, it was the most surreal open-air museum I have ever been to and the setting (a beautiful country landscape) and general presentation of information is admirable. I chose to visit the museum to see the lobby of the Imperial Hotel (from Tokyo), designed by the famous American architect, Frank Lloyd Wright, without realizing the additional benefits of learning a lot more about Japan and this era before going.
The park is not the cheapest to enter (1600 Yen - about $15), but it really is or can be a whole day adventure. The experience is also rather Disney-esque, especially if you are into history or architecture, so the price is comparitvely much cheaper as far as theme-park-like entrance fees go. I won't go through the details of every place I saw here (check out the comments on my photo album or 'highlights' for more details), but I had an awesome afternoon. I was really lucky to visit the day I did, too, because the park was hosting a festival that evening. They usually close at 6pm, but were open until 9pm for the occassion. I was only doing a day-trip, so I obviously couldn't stay for the fireworks or concerts later on, but there were a lot of events I did get to partake in.
One example of these activities were soaking my tired feet in the cold water of the "Azuma-yu" bathhouse, an old public bathhouse that looked a lot like the ones still around today. I also bought some old-fashioned candy (like Japanese rock candy that I've gotten at Laura Ingles Wilder places in the midwest) and festival food at the stalls, saw part of a play being done at the Kureha-za Theatre, and got to ride an old-fashioned bike (with one huge wheel in back and a tiny one in front). There were rumors of beer that had been brewed on-site for sale, as well, but I wasn't in the mood for it and never came across it.

The capstone, of course, was the Frank Lloyd Wright building, which I found at the end of the park. The building is pretty big, so I took my time walking around inside. I sat in the lobby for a while, and felt that I got closer to the actual interior than I may have in American museums.

Overall, it was a great day. I couldn't do a daytrip like that every weekend, but I am glad I went and give it the thumbs up.

Some Highlights:
- The St.Francis Xavier's Cathedral: a giant, stone cathedral moved from Kyoto. I was actually a little bummed that they had relocated the cathedral; it reminded me a LOT of the church that I grew up in
(Nativity) and I am sure mass would be beautiful!
- The Kanazawa Prison buildings (label might
be wrong in the pics? - the Maebara prison ward was also there) were awesome. - Places like the Tokyo Grand Station Police box and an original lamp from the stone bridge at the Imperial Palace (Tokyo), imported from Germany, were a little shocking to come across.
- I didn't see the horses, but there was at least one stable, as well as Meiji-era hospitals with original nurses uniforms and the original Red Cross hospital beds (with bedding).
- They even had imported foreign buildings from the Meiji era, built by Japanese people abroad. This included the Japanese Immigrant's Assembly Hall from Hilo, Hawaii (sort of like a little Ellis Island for immigrants to Hawaii). Inside the Hawaiian building, I found pictures and information about Joseph Haco, one of the first immigrants to America and the man who brought the newspaper to Japan. He is actually from Harimacho, the town next to where I live. The funny thing is that I recognized the pictures before I saw the article because the originals are at a history museum near my apartment that I have been to a few times this year.
- The music being played over hidden loudspeakers throughout the park (also period-specific, of course!) was enchanting.
-All of the cute, young couples and girls in yukata, out for the festival, made for such a fun setting. I think the place was busier than it normally is because of the event, but it was cool to see all of the different colors and patterns on the yukata. If I didn't live in Japan (and see yukata at every other summer festival), I think I would have thought Meiji Mura was a cross between Epcot Center and a Japan exhibit within Disneyland!

My Daytrip to Nagoya/Gifu

It's about 12:30 and I just walked in the door from my 16-hour adventure to Nayoga/Gifu. What a fantastic day!! I've been sitting on trains much too long today (4 hours+ each way, not including scooting to-and-from places once I arrived in Nagoya), but I am really glad I decided to go.

So I originally went on the trip because I have this 5-day JR Pass that I need to use this summer and because I wanted to see the lobby of the Imperial Hotel (designed by Frank Lloyd Wright) that is currently housed at an open-air museum called Meiji-Mura. The museum was fantastic; it exceeded my expectations far beyond what I could have hoped for. I also stopped at Atsuta Shrine, one of Japan's most famous shrines (houses a sword that was "handed down to the royal family from the Gods" - one of three holy regalia) and Inuyamajo, Japan's oldest Samurai Castle. I was going to swing by Ise to check out Japan's most holy shrine (and also the site of another of the three holy regalia, this time a mirror), but I decided to spend more time at the Meiji-era museum and just enjoy myself, rather than stress about fitting too much in. Meiji Mura was coincidentally holding a matsuri (festival) today, so pretty much everyone visiting the park was wearing yukata, or summer kimonos (I was pretty much the only non-Japanese tourist at the place), they were open later and they had special events going on.

I will give details tomorrow, but if you get a chance to.... go to Meiji Mura! I would *definately* recommend it. It's not only an interesting array (read: hodge podge) of really well-preserved buildings from the Meiji era (when Japan first opened to the outside world, essentially colonizing itself, and experienced a bout of "cultural schizophrenia" as the LP put it), but it is also showcases a fantastic representation of structures from all over Japan (even the world, if you consider the fact that most of the architects - like Frank Lloyd Wright - were foreign born).

I'm totally wiped, so off to bed with me. I was hoping to stop in Osaka on the way home to see what the re-sale (ok, scalping) situation on the Summer Sonic tickets was, but I was too late in getting back. I kinda don't think the concert is going to happen tomorrow, but the weather has been nice, so at least I'll be able to relax and be outside. Hope you are having a fun weekend and more soon. 'Night!

Foiled Plans & A Step Back in TIme

I went out for okonomiyaki with some of the new people in the community last night. I think I really, really like them. My new neighbor (well, we live in the same complex, but he's the other foreigner in my area) and I seem to get along well. He and I have a similar background. He's maori (and from northern NZ), worked for the Bank of NZ for the last year-and-a-half, studied business in college and also did a year abroad (in Poland and Ireland) before college. I think we like a lot of the same kind of music, too, which is generally a good sign. And the boy likes to party - as in throwing theme parties, that is! My apartment is much too small to host any real shindigs at the moment, but I loved the parties we had at "the White Castle" (my old house in Minneapolis), and would love to collaborate on a theme party or two this year. Excellent!

So I was going to attend this music festival this weekend called Summer Sonic. It's held annually in Osaka and Tokyo and is one of the biggest festivals in Asia. I've been lazy about getting the tickets, however, and when I finally went to buy them yesterday... they were sold out!! I am so sad - I would have loved to have seen Gwen Stefani (especially in Japan since she's obsessed with the culture) and I've really been looking forward to Interpol. I am going to try discount ticket places, but I don't have much hope.

Tobs, his French girlfriend and Trygve are going island-hopping in Okayama and invited me to join, but I think I already missed the boat (no pun intended) on that one. SO, what is the big plan for the weekend (now that Summer Sonic is out)?!:MEIJI-MURA!

I mentioned earlier that I wanted to explore the Frank Lloyd Wright/Japan connection more this summer, and this weekend will be the second installment of that little expedition. I'm planning to visit a theme-park of sorts called Meiji Mura, where the lobby he designed for the Imperial Hotel (originally built in Tokyo) is housed. I am especially interested in seeing more of his work here in Japan after the Ashiya estate turned out to be so cool. And now that I have this Juhachi Seishun Kippu, a 5-day unlimited JR travel pass (that expires in Sept and I need to use anyways)... it makes sense.

I'm going to head out for Nagoya tomorrow morning and just go for the day (it takes about 4 hours each way). I am sure I'll have a lot to share upon my return, but in the meantime, here's some background information about where I'm going. I think the article offers some good information about the Meiji Era and the park; it might give you a better idea of why I want to go, too. I didn't actually get permission to post this article here, but it's on the Japanzine website if you want to research more. Cheers!

Meiji Memories
By Chester Cross

Other Asian countries were colonized by the West, but Japan more-or-less colonized itself. Though it took Commodore Perry and his infamous Black Ships to convince the Japanese to spread their country's legs to the outside world, once they'd taken that first step there was no looking back. The first decades of the Meiji era (1867-1912) saw Japan lose itself in a fever of rampant Westernization, as everything from democracy to top hats was imported and given a try.
It was a weird, heady period in the nation's history, many of whose initial gains were later rescinded as reactionary factions regrouped and fought back. However, some conspicuous reminders of that full-on flirtation with all things Western lived on – not least among them the distinctive architecture. Replacing wood and paper with bricks and mortar, many of the Meiji era's buildings wouldn't have looked out of place thousands of miles away, in the countries whose styles they were so overtly aping. Some were the work of Western architects, but others were the fruits of exclusively Japanese labor, an impressive testament to how quickly the country's brightest minds were catching up with their overseas counterparts.
These days, though, you'd be hard pressed to find many Meiji relics. While the odd example still exists – Tokyo Station being perhaps the most well-known – many fell victim to the scourges of earthquakes, bombing raids and post-war reconstruction. The latter was perhaps the cruelest, when glorious old wrecks were swept away in a wave of bland concretisms and pre-fab apartments.
Fortunately, these buildings weren't without their mourners. Moved by the seemingly willful destruction of his country's heritage, an architect named Yoshiro Taniguchi decided to take action. He joined forces with his former classmate Moto Tsuchikawa, later president of the Meitetsu railway company, and in 1965 opened Meiji Mura, providing these unwanted remnants of the past with a permanent home.

Meiji Mura's site, curled around one corner of Lake Iruka on the outskirts of Inuyama, initially housed 15 structures, all painstakingly moved from their original locations and reconstructed there. That number has since swelled to over 60, ranging in scale from lamps and gates to an entire cathedral. They're spread over the rolling hills of a vast, bucolic park that would probably be worth a visit even without this rich, slightly random confection of historical goodies.
Yup, random is the operative word. Meiji Mura's buildings have been wrenched out of their original contexts, and the initial effect of seeing them bunched together here is a bit jarring – more befitting of a theme park than a history museum. One second you're admiring the innards of a Kanazawa prison, the next you're standing face-to-face with the Imperial Hotel, Tokyo. It's like wandering around the real-life results of a drunken game of Sim City. Still, once you get over the mild weird-out factor, there's plenty to enjoy.
Visitors coming by bus will arrive at the Main Gate, requisitioned from a Nagoya high school, in the south-west corner of the site. From there, it's roughly a kilometer to the North Gate, traversing the park's five distinct areas. Pace yourself, as there's a hell of a lot to see – you'll need at least half a day to do it all justice.
If your legs threaten to give up on you, you can take advantage of the vintage transportation options on offer. An old-school bus travels from gate to gate, while shorter stretches are covered by a streetcar, horse-drawn carriage and, most impressively, a steam engine whose distinctive whistle echoes through the park all day long. These all cost extra to ride, but the novelty factor might prove irresistible for some.
In the southern half of the site, don't miss out on the beautiful St. John's Church, one of the ten buildings here that's officially recognized as an Important Cultural Property. The grand Higashi-Yamanashi District Office and the oh-so-Germanic Kitasato Institute are also well worth checking out (and pretty hard to miss). Follow the path that snakes around the side of the lake and you'll find Zagyo-so, a gorgeous wooden villa that belonged to Prince Kinmochi Saionji (“politicians visited the villa incessantly,” the official website states, and you can see why), then the pint-sized Shinagawa Lighthouse.
A little further north, in Area 4, are some of the park's most exotic attractions (well, in geographical terms at least): a Japanese Evangelical church from Seattle, immigrant's house from Brazil and immigrant's assembly hall from Hawaii. None, to be fair, are all that interesting to look at – at least not when there's buildings like the glorious Uji-Yamada Post Office competing for attention.
However, Meiji Mura saves its best until last. Area 5 is home to such treats as St. Francis Xavier's Cathedral and the aforementioned Imperial Hotel. The latter is undoubtedly the biggest draw here: the building single-handedly revived architect Frank Lloyd Wright's career, not least because it survived the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 unscathed. It's an impressive bit of work, fusing ferro-concrete and blocks of volcanic rock into a structure weirdly reminiscent of both Mayan and Balinese temples.
All of the buildings come complete with explanatory plaques in both Japanese and English. Visitors are able to wander around many of them freely, while others open their doors a few times a day for guided tours. Well, you wouldn't want just anyone poking around now, would you...?

(article found at http://www.seekjapan.jp/article/jz/1065/Meiji+Memories)

China, a Priest & the War... Oh My!

Somehow or another, I seem to learn something new everyday. Which is the goal, in many ways, I guess. But this week seems to have brought with it more than the normal serving of lessons.
Let's take yesterday, for example. So on Monday, I went over to the fridge in the staff room to get a drink (the ones the PTA donated - so awesome) and, as usual, Edagawa Sensei was sitting on the computer next to the little kitchen area. Edagawa Sensei has only been at our school since April, but he worked with Jane (and was in a band with Chigusa) before that. I don't know him super well, but we talk once in a while and he's a pretty cool guy. Well, he was busy writing away on the computer when I walked up (all in kanji so I had no clue what the program even was), and I asked him what he was up to. He said he was just journaling. Well, I am pretty protective of my blog (for obvious reasons - I don't want to have to limit content and don't need 1,000 Takasago Minami students checking in on their teacher's personal life at will or for English practice), but I trust Edagawa Sensei and decided to let him in on the secret. I think it was a good idea; he was really surprised and excited to see the pictures of me with Jane, Jen & Clayton (his old foreign coworkers). We talked for a bit longer and he said he was going to look through the site.
The next day, I went over to the fridge, and again, there he was, sitting at the computer. When I said hi, he told me he had read the China entry I posted last week and wanted to chat about it. Anyways, the topic of China-Japanese relations can be considered a sensitive subject here, so I got kinda excited.
Edagawa Sensei said he sympathized with my views (to my surprise), but gave me a new perspective on some of the tensions between the cultures; just things I maybe hadn't realized befor. For example, I told him how positive my experiences in the country have been, but he reminded me that I am received differently as an American in China than he would be as a Japanese person. I guess I didn't consider that, but it's a good point. Even if you love China, you might not have the warmest reception there due to politics and conflicts of the past if Japan is your native country (or even your ethnicity). It's an ongoing issue and roadblock to improving issues. Prejudice (and racism) run deep. Of course I'd have a different perspective (being from the west), yes, but it was interesting to actually hear it first-hand from someone that seemed pretty unbiased but realistic (and from Japan).
The next revelation occured later in the day, back at my desk. This time, I was chatting with Arauchi Sensei, the math teacher that sits behind me, and the nurse. The conversation was hilarious (the highlight was probably when I was telling them about the food in Hiroshima and Arauchi Sensei told the nurse her face was like Hiroshimayaki: "hot!!" - hahahaha!). Anyways, we somehow ventured onto the topic of Buddhism and I discovered that the other math teacher that I sit by is a Buddhist priest! What?! A priest?! That's so cool! It's apparently really common for Buddhist priests to have day-jobs, but I never suspected I sat right next to one. I mean, I sit kitty-corner from him. I was actually just playing around with some easy math problems and talked to him about his new daughter (who was born last week) with him earlier in the week. No clue! I saw "the priest" later and asked him about his relationship with Buddhism. Apparently, he lives in a temple and his family has a tradition of Buddhist priests. Wow... I love it!
Ok, so I have a lot of revelations (not sure if that's a good or bad thing), but there is one more notable conversation that I want to share; sort of the "moments" that make living here even more worth it. I was talking to Tsutsumi Sensei, my coworker & one of the kindest poeple I have ever met, about her family. They invited me to come to a festival with them next week (for Obon - a holiday that you traditionally spend with your family). I'm really looking forward to seeing her mother and two kids again after Claire (my friend from home) and I went to her house for dinner this spring. It was actually at that dinner that her girls taught Claire and I how to fold paper cranes, which led us to a discussion about Sadako (the little girl who died of luekemia because of the bomb and refounded the paper crane tradition) and the bigger subjects of Hiroshima and war. I showed her some pictures from my trip last week (Nozaki Sensei is borrowing most of my materials - we're maybe going to do a class on war & peace this fall...), and we started talking about the war time. Tsutsumi Sensei told me about her mother and grandmother's experience with the war. They lived in this area (very close to my school) and had to hide in holes in the ground as the area was bombed by the American fighter planes. Some Americans say they are embarrassed about talking about the war or going to Hiroshima, but I think it's really important. I mean, can you imagine? Tsutsumi Sensei's mother lived through the bombings (they actually captured her family and lied and said she was dead to protect her) and the war, yet 60-years later, here she is, making cakes for Claire and I in her home and inviting me join their family in these traditional events sicne I don't have a family of my own here. I'm not embarrassed... but I am humbled. It's pretty amazing.

Tuesday Heatwave

It’s Tuesday morning. I am literally sweating as I sit here at my desk. The humidity hasn’t been as bad in recent days, but the sun is scorching hot (and the shade doesn’t provide much relief). I’ve resorted to wearing dresses and skirts everyday because it’s jut too hot for pants. At least one coworker has commented on the dress trend (I guess I really don’t wear them that often... looks like I'm dressed up), but it makes a difference.

I saw Mori Sensei and Hayashi Sensei, who had both only just returned from the study trip to Australia, at school yesterday afternoon. I won’t get into the details or politics, but neither of them seemed too pleased with the other (with regard to how the trip went), but both had a good time. I had a long talk with Mori Sensei yesterday when she gave me my omiyage (or presents from her trip), and a very long and candid discussion with Hayashi Sensei this morning. Among other topics in the conversation, I found out more school politics and gossip than I want or needed to know, that we are going to be getting some visits from some foreign dignitaries (which I get to help with – should be interesting), and that Hayashi Sensei has produced a couple of documentaries, sold through a museum in Australia. Randomness!

So not much is too new here on the J – front, other than my weekend escapades. I had Japanese class, as usual, last night. I am signing up to take a Japanese proficiency test in December, so I need to take the studying up a few notches. I can sort of communicate now, but my level is still really elementary and my kanji count is way too low.
I’ve also been spending more time alone recently, too, partially because I need to relax and mostly because I'm trying to recover my health. I’ve been sick on-and-off-again for about a month now. I went back to the doctor and got more antibiotics two weeks ago. I was actually better, but the coughing resumed shortly after the Fuji hike. I debated Hiroshima this weekend, too, because I have gotten the message that I need to let my body heal (and I didn’t know if Tobs and Trygve would be free to hang out or if I would be able to get into the conference), but I think I did the right thing in going... and that I am actually feeling a lot better.
I am not sure I have spent all of this “personal time” well, but it has been nice. I spent one day just writing at the beach last week, sitting in my sundress in the breeze and listening to the waves flow in-and-out and children shriek with laughter as they splashed around. I generally don’t watch TV at all, either (with the exception of maybe one show - it was Greys Anatomy before I came to Japan and Friends before that), but I somehow managed to watch the entire first season of Heroes last week and a season of Arrested Development the week before. I was going at a pace of about 6 or 7 episodes a day... and believe me, that’s a lot. At least they use a good amount of Japanese in the Heroes series, although I am not sure I liked it enough to be hooked for the next season. Entertaining enough, though.
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It’s Tuesday evening. Quiet day, but nice day. At lunch, I went to the “ma & pa shop” around the corner (ぐるぺ). The special today was salmon and the cold milk tea tasted especially refreshing with the heat. I brought my book and finally finished it. I was glad there weren’t any other teachers at the place (nicknamed “the second cafeteria” by our staff). Had to make sure you couldn’t tell I had been crying before I went back to school...emotional ending to the novel.
After lunch, Kelly came to Takasago (the town I work in) to go shopping for presents since she is going home on Friday. I met her at the station and brought her to school with me. She met my principal, vice principal and about half the staff. We hung out with some of the 2nd-year girls for a while, and she was impressed by their English. Before leaving, we watched kendo practice before spending some time chatting with the calligraphy teacher, who used to work at Kelly's school and, therefore, knows both of us. He was in the middle of going through potential textbooks when we came in, but found chairs for us in his office (more like a workshop or studio) and gave us apple juice from Aomori Prefecture. It was a pleasant conversation, and he offered to teach me Japanese calligraphy (I think I am going to start going to art club). I also brought Kelly to meet Bjarne Hansen (or "Hansen-san"), the Danish guy that runs the hotdog stand in the middle of town. I think Kelly was a little worried about trying the Danish hotdogs (they're Scandinavian, really: big with lots of strange toppings!), but my favorite (#5, the Anderson Dog) was a hit. I think I finally made it home around 7:30 pm.

At night, I started running again for the first time in probably a month (since I fell ill). I met Vaughn, an engineering student from California who is doing an internship here, and we ran along the Kisegawa river to the JR station. He lives pretty close to me, so we are probably going to meet and run to the big temple on the water tomorrow, too (only about 7km total – it’s on the way to Akashi). My new neighbor (Jane's successor) gets here tomorrow, too. All I really know about the guy is that he is Maori (the indigenous group of New Zealand), that he worked for the Bank of NZ for this past year, and that he seems really fun. I’m looking forward to it!

Miwa is coming over in a minute to upload some pictures, so I should go. Hiroshima details to follow...I had a spectacular time!

Hiroshima - Part I

So I finally made it to Hiroshima Station around 11:15 on Friday night. I had gotten packed, out the door, and onto a train within an hour and a half of deciding to go on Friday, so even though there was a huge rush at the beginning, I definitely had time to cool down during the SEVEN HOUR train ride. I used the juhacho seishun kippu (a limited-time discount ticket on JR) to get there. The trip should have taken less than 5 hours, but due to some delayed trains, and therefore missed connections; it took a lot longer (especially considering the shinkansensen only takes an hour from Himeji!). I saw a lot of beautiful scenery on the way and had forgotten how much fun it can be to travel long distances alone, though. You meet a lot of really random, cool people who aren’t as afraid of approaching you as they would be if you were with a group (especially other foreigners). We also passed a few festivals (with fireworks shows) on the way.
So while I might have done something wrong with the train, I definitely did something right with the hostel. I actually found the place in the Lonely Planet, but was shocked by how far it exceeded my expectations. If you ever go to Hiroshima, I definitely recommend staying at the Aster Plaza, next to the Peace Park. It took me less than 5 minutes to get to the Peace Museum by foot from the front door of the building (and thus pretty much all of central Hiroshima). While the rooms are some of the cheapest in town, they are also uncharacteristically (for Japan), extremely nice and spacious. There’s a 7-day limit on how long you can stay, but I think the Plaza is owned and run by the local government, so they offer two floors of 3 or 4-star quality hotel rooms at ridiculously low rates to encourage people – especially youth – to visit the city. My room had a gorgeous view of the two rivers in the middle of town, and it even came with a dressing gown to wear to bed.
So anyways, I had gotten to the place pretty late and needed to get up early the next morning (had made arrangements to meet up with my friends from Norway who were coincidentally attending the same conference), but I met these two students from Nagoya in the lobby. They were both PhD students on summer grants, but one of the guys (originally from Florida – the other was German) knew a lot about Japan and wanted to chat about how I ended up here. We started chatting and the hours just slipped by. I know I must have said I was leaving to go to bed probably three times before actually cutting off the conversation and going back to my room around 3:30am.

The Peace Museum
I was pretty tired the next morning, but I, nonetheless, got up around 7 and got to the Peace Museum as it opened. The students at the Plaza had warned me against the museum, saying it was impersonal (the only thing you can get close to and touch is roof tiles) and biased (tended to contain an edge, blaming America for the war). They made several solid points in this argument when they told me about it (or so I thought at the time), but after visiting the museum myself… I couldn’t disagree more. The museum was excellent. I didn’t take the audio tour, but when you walk in, the first room is dedicated to educating about the events leading up to the war (including surprisingly candid and honest descriptions of Japan-China relations). There were pictures of soldiers being sent off to war in Japan (humanizing the people we once considered “the enemy” for many, I am sure) and I learned that all schools previously had compulsory military training, with a military representative stationed at each school (check out the picture of middle school students hiking through the hills with rifles). This hit me especially hard considering I spend the majority of my time here working in the public school system and I cannot imagine it happening today (and I am at one of the strictest schools in my prefecture). I also learned that while the American government chose four potential locations for dropping the atomic bomb, they chose Hiroshima because it was the one city without any foreign prisoners of war.
The museum is broken into two main sections (buildings, actually), with a lounge and shop in the middle, where you can rest and reflect, with some information about what hydrogen and atomic bombs actually are.
The second part of the museum was dedicated to educating about the effects of the war and bomb. As you walk into the second part, you walk through rubble, making you feel like you are entering a building that was just hit by the bomb. They have artifacts in glass cases against all the walls and in the center of the room, with large pictures taken after the war. I saw a lot of tattered clothing and pictures of shadows, essentially, where people were standing and sitting when the bomb went off (the walls around them were lightened, so their bodies – blocking the extreme light - cast an eternal shadow as the bodies themselves almost turned to dust. It was awful in many ways, but important. I was horrified to hear about people’s organs and eyes bursting, while their skin melted like wax. There were also drawings done by survivors of the blast, and the museum ended with messages of hope. But I still walked out affected, happy to be in the calm atmosphere of the peace park (luscious and green – a place they said that wouldn’t grow anything for 75 years). It was a moving and intriguing introduction to my educational journey in this place where the world first witnessed the power of nuclear weaponry; a place my countrymen visited as enemies and that many people now sought out to spread messages of peace and pursuing friendship.

The 2007 World Conference Against Atomic and Hydrogen Bombs
I know it’s dame (a big no-no), but I left my phone on silent at the museum, and I was really glad I hadn’t turned it off, because I would have missed Trygve’s call if I hadn’t. Trygve and Torbjorn, two Norwegian guys I met at school in Oslo when I was 18 (and hung out with a bit when I went back to uni there in 2003) were also in town for the The 2007 World Conference Against Atomic and Hydrogen Bombs. I was actually pretty lucky there were, too. I knew I wanted to attend the conference and know people who have gone in the past, but I was not able to find much information online prior to going so I wasn’t sure I would be able to participate. Trygve is part of an organization for physicians in Norway that was invited to join the conference, so they were part of a Norwegian delegation, and I basically just joined their group of four (there were two other female medical students). Anyways, we made plans to meet at the conference hall, which was next to my hotel, and I sat in on several speeches with them. It was mostly reactions and feedback from previous workshops and organizations reading their prepared statements (declarations of peace), but I found it interesting and inspiring, especially considering there were about 260 delegates from 20 different countries (that a lot of perspective). After the morning session, we all went out for coffee and worked on a presentation that the Norwegians would present that night. I wasn’t part of the delegation, but I was able to help them a bit, which was fun, and I really got along with the two girls (who kind of reminded me of some of my girlfriends in Oslo).
I had planned on heading to Miyajima (a sacred island with a shrine that is one of the ‘three great sights of Japan”). I wasn’t expecting the guys to be free but was happy when they said they’d come with me. I changed quickly and we delivered the speech to the conference headquarters (to be printed) before taking JR and a boat to the island.

Miyajima
I could definitely have spent days on this island (rather than hours), one of the most beautiful places I have yet seen in Japan. It has cascading green mountains (one with a ropeway and all with a lot of hiking trails and wildlife – lots of monkeys!) and the shrine was absolutely gorgeous. If you have seen pictures of Japan, there is a good chance you would recognize the shrine, with it’s orange torii (Shinto gate) coming out of the water, which makes it look like it’s floating. The gate is actually the entrance to the temple (for when the island was only used for religious purposed and visitors would arrive by boat), but the water around it is shallow; we were lucky to come on a day with a high tide… a lot of people only experience the torii surrounded by mud! The ferry we took had dropped us off at a station just down the road from the shrine. We took our time walking over, petting the hundreds of wild deer wandering around (a bit more aggressive than the ones in Nara and a lot of them with huge antlers) and peeking in the doors of some of the small, touristy shops along the way. When we got to the shrine itself (which also appears to be floating and stands before a large temple and five-storey pagoda with a mountainous backdrop), we stopped to take some pictures with the torii (new Facebook profile pictures…haha) before going in. There was a 300 Yen entrance fee, which is – like most cultural sites (especially the other UNESCO World Heritage Sites) – extremely cheap for a museum. Tobs had been to the island earlier in the year, but we just wandered around through the groups of other tourists before, stopping again at the water and to play with the deer, before heading back to the boat.

Hiroshimayaki, the A-Bomb Dome and The Peace Park
Like I said, I could have spent a lot more time on Miyajima (we had about 2 hours total on the island), but maybe someday I’ll go back for hiking or camping. The guys had to get back for their presentation, however, and it was really hot and humid, so we took the ferry, train and trolley back to the hotel, where we split ways. I decided to explore some of the city rather than attend the evening session of the conference (now open to the public) because I had such limited time. After running back to my room to freshen-up, I went back to the Peace Park, where I took my time looking at the different memorials and statues. The only thing I didn’t end up seeing was the recently relocated Korean Memorial (one out of ten victims of the a-bomb were Korean), but the park was surprisingly empty. When I went to get a closer look at the eternal flame, for example, there was no one around, except for me and the stray cats that you see running all over the park. The park opens up at the river, with the famous A-bomb dome on the other side. There were small stands with concerts all over the place, so I just wandered around, looking around and taking everything in, while the roar of the crowd from the Hiroshima Carp’s baseball game nearby drifted through the air. I spent some time looking at the dome, T-shaped bridge that was the target for the bomb, and chairs set up at small shrines for the next day’s ceremonies (on the 62nd anniversary of the bomb) before heading a few blocks over to the business and shopping districts. My neighbor Miwa had been in Hiroshima earlier in the week, so she told me where to go for sales. I shopped for a while, but tried to ignore the impulse to buy (everything) since I’ll be going home soon. When all the stores started to close down (around 8pm-ish?), I walked down the arcade (covered mall) in the middle of town and found my way to Okonomiyaki Mura, an area of shops that all specialize in the local specialty – okonomiyaki (including a four storey building with nothing but okonomiyaki dives that all specialize in Hiroshima yaki). I ducked into a small shop and took a seat on a stool near the ‘bar’ (in front of the hot plate). I actually ended up sitting next to a girl my age from Kyushu (the southern big island in Japan), who had come alone for the peace ceremony, too. She didn’t speak English, so our conversation was pretty limited, but she was nice and I think we were both glad to have a buddy at dinner. The food was amazing, too!
After dinner, I took one last stroll through the park...

Hiroshima... Here I Come!

Wow, I am shocked by the amount of global press the bridge collapse in Minneapolis is getting. I used that bridge all the time; it's still surreal to me that any of this happened. Thankfully, nobody I know was hurt or injured, but the news updates my mom has been emailing me send a chill down my spine. Everytime I refresh the internet server, there seems to be a new take on the story (the headline on Japan's Yahoo Page), and Jessica told me it was even covered on the local "6 o'clock news" in Spain (actually at 2pm there... but you get the idea). It just seems like one of those things that happenes "somewhere else".

Please continue to keep your thoughts and prayers with those who were injured and the families of the victims!

It's Saturday afternoon right now and I am headed to Hiroshima in about 30 minutes for the World Conference, a peace conference on the anniversary of the A-Bomb. I was going to leave last night (Friday) or early this morning, but decided to hold out because of the weather forecast (heavy t-storms). Ironically, it turned out to be a beautiful day both here in Kobe and in Hiroshima... so I'm going to go afterall. I am travelling alone for this one, but I will be meeting up with Torbjorn and Trygve (another friend from Oslo who is visiting Tobs and part of a delegation for the conference), so it should be fun and educational. I will also see Miyajima tomorrow (famous for the floating Shinto Gate), which many people have told me is their favorite place in Japan. Plenty of pictures to come.

In the meantime, enjoy your weekends! Update to come on Monday:)

Hard times for Business in China?

Ok, I just saw another article about problem merchandise out of China and thought I'd pipe in. A few weeks ago, I had several people warn me to watch out for Chinese products in the grocery story (one literally checking to make sure I knew the kanji for "made in china" so i could avoid those products). The concern and media was prompted by a lot of people in Japan falling ill after seriously under-standard food from China was purchased and consumed in Japan. I think I even heard something about dangerous dog food. I kinda brushed that one off a little, considering myself at low risk (in reference to the groceries, not the dog food...) since my staple foods here are lettuce (usually from California), fruit, udon, white rice (currently with seaweed paper from Korea), milk, coffee and juice. Yeah, I eat a lot of Japanese food at school and when I go out, but I stick with a generally pretty western cuisine at home. No worries - I would just have to trust the restaraunts and cafeteria to do the checking.

Then, last week, I read a recent article on CNN about a woman who went a year without Chinese products, recalling how it is nearly impossible to tell if ingredients in most foods actually originated in the massive exporting country. The quality and health concerns came up again, this time on the American front.
(read the full story: http://edition.cnn.com/2007/LIVING/wayoflife/07/26/china.products/index.html)

Today I saw this article about toys being recalled (and by one of the largest toy manufacturer's in the world) because their paint - from China - contains lead: One Million toys Re-called: http://edition.cnn.com/2007/US/08/01/toy.recall.ap/index.html

What is going on here?

China was obviously a huge focus in my professional life when i was working in the retail industry, especially considering my job entailed contact with supply-chain management, but it was more high level and the focus was on apparel. Now, however, it seems like there is a lot of public focus on ALL products out of China - and not for good reasons.

I have heard China described as the modern "Wild Wild West" (or east, if you will), but this is really not acceptible. This does not bode well for a country that has only been part of the WTO for 6 years, who is hosting the Olympics for the first time next year, and who is facing massive structural changes when, among other things, the Three Gorges Dam is officially completed in 2009. I feel like these production issues take root in quality control and business ethics. Watchdog groups are out there, yes, but is anyone teaching (or increasing education for) these businesses on how to correctly check their products and make sure they are up to standards? If not, what part of the responsibility for that do the western companies selling these products to unknowing consumers hold? We do have programs in the US like Peace Corps, which try to make a difference at a personal, or grassroots, level in China, but I think some proper *business* theory also needs to be injected into the professional environment. I am not an MBA, but it doesn't take a genius to realize this is not working... and, once again, it is totally unacceptable.

Part of the reason I want to share my thoughts on this topic is that I have a strong admiration and emotional connection with China, a country I have spent several months traveling (both through my studies, working and as a tourist). There is so much man-power and potential there. You want to talk about supply and demand?...the potential man-power in China is mind-numbing. Most of the people working now are just one generation away from the tragedies of the Great Leap Forward and Cultural Revolution, too. Their parents knew real poverty; there are many people willing to work hard for a better life and to not have to go back to that. As they continue to build a new foundation (the now 40-year-old "New China"), I just hope they don't falter too much, and build a solid base. Then again, I suppose that is exactly what the WTO, for example, is trying to help them do.

I really love China and I want to see it shaped, or rather develop, positively... like an old friend. The "Sleeping Giant" is awakening...let's hope it finds prosper. But for now, yeah, maybe I will start to watch out for those "made in china" kanji.

Just some thoughts...

Worried: I-35 Bridge Collapse

I have gotten a couple emails from friends, letting me know they are OK, but I am shocked and worried this morning as news of the Interstate 35W bridge collapse (a 4-lane highway spanning across the Mississippi in my hometown of Minneapolis, MN) streams in.

I still can't get ahold of my parents, but as long as my mom wasn't on her way back from the farm or something, they should be safe (my brother is out of town). Mike should have been on the bridge, too, but miraculously decided to stay at his parents a little longer and study today, and Joe has emailed me to let me know the cell phone lines are all tied-up with people checking to make sure everyone is safe (like NYC after 9/11), so it's nearly impossible to call right now.

For those of you in MPLS: if you read this soon, please shoot me an email lettine me know you're ok. I'm a bit shaken.

This story is on the front page of every major (online) newspaper I am pulling up. They think the bridge buckled under the weight of cars during rush hour, although an official statement with the reason has not been released. At least several cars fell into the Mississippi, but it is not certain how many people have been killed or injured (they just said "lots").

Yahoo: http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20070802/ap_on_re_us/minnesota_bridge_collapse
CNN: http://www.cnn.com/2007/US/08/01/bridge.collapse/index.html
BBC: http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/americas/6927113.stm
Mpls Star Tribune: http://www.startribune.com/462/story/1338294.html

Update from my dad (the family is safe - whew!):
So far, about two-and-a-half-hours after it happened, they are still searching in the water for people. Three confirmed dead so far, a couple from drowning. There were about 50 cars onthe bridge when it went down, and about 20 construction workers. The whole bridge--4 lanes of traffic--just totally collapsed. There was work beingdone on the bridge. I heard about the bridge when I turned the Twins game on (at about 7 PM). Many on the bridge were fans coming to the Twins game. They decided to have the game tonight rather than send the crowds back out into the traffic. Butthe game for tomorrow night has been postponed. HCMC says about 22 peoplehave been admitted, 6 of them critical. Injuries north of the river arebeing sent to North Memorial in Robbinsdale.

The news reports will be going on all night. Check www.wcco.com as well as Star Tribune if you want to know more.