Brenda in Japan

Hailing from Minneapolis, Minnesota, Brenda McKinney is an American living and working in the Kansai region of Japan. This is an account of her life and adventures among the fine people of Nihon.

Monday, August 13, 2007

Meiji Mura

Ahh, Meiji Mura. Where do I even begin? I'll start with some background...

Meiji Mura is an open-air museum (meaning you can walk around outside and it recreates a situation) that holds over 60 buildings from the Meiji Era. This is the period in which Japan opened it's doors after hundreds of years of international seclusion, colonizing itself at alarmingly fast rates. If you have ever seen the Last Samurai, it does a good job of depicting some of the changes going on at this time in Japan's history, even though the plot-line itself is obviously fictional. The film partcularly shows how the government and then-emporer Meiji were diligent in importing foreign strategies and theories, bringing in 'experts' to help shape a modern, international Japan. They literally picked and chose from the best of what the world had to offer. The Last Samurai focuses on the military movement (and, yes, Meiji really was when they banished the samurai class and burned down a lot of their castles), but they also brought in world-famous architects and cultural experts to enhance other facets of society. Meiji Mura is a representation of this movement and it's western influence.
While the Meiji period ended less than 100 years ago (1912), there are unfortunately alarmingly few relics and buildings from this period still around; many being destroyed by war and natural distasters. Thus, the museum was created to help preserve several important buildings from this period (1867-1912) that still remain in good condition. They dismantled buildings (some in clusters, almost like little towns) and relocated/re-erected them at a site in Nagoya (where the museum is today). Many of the buildings also include original furnishings, decorations and pictures.
I am obviously a huge fan of the place, but I have to say, it was the most surreal open-air museum I have ever been to and the setting (a beautiful country landscape) and general presentation of information is admirable. I chose to visit the museum to see the lobby of the Imperial Hotel (from Tokyo), designed by the famous American architect, Frank Lloyd Wright, without realizing the additional benefits of learning a lot more about Japan and this era before going.
The park is not the cheapest to enter (1600 Yen - about $15), but it really is or can be a whole day adventure. The experience is also rather Disney-esque, especially if you are into history or architecture, so the price is comparitvely much cheaper as far as theme-park-like entrance fees go. I won't go through the details of every place I saw here (check out the comments on my photo album or 'highlights' for more details), but I had an awesome afternoon. I was really lucky to visit the day I did, too, because the park was hosting a festival that evening. They usually close at 6pm, but were open until 9pm for the occassion. I was only doing a day-trip, so I obviously couldn't stay for the fireworks or concerts later on, but there were a lot of events I did get to partake in.
One example of these activities were soaking my tired feet in the cold water of the "Azuma-yu" bathhouse, an old public bathhouse that looked a lot like the ones still around today. I also bought some old-fashioned candy (like Japanese rock candy that I've gotten at Laura Ingles Wilder places in the midwest) and festival food at the stalls, saw part of a play being done at the Kureha-za Theatre, and got to ride an old-fashioned bike (with one huge wheel in back and a tiny one in front). There were rumors of beer that had been brewed on-site for sale, as well, but I wasn't in the mood for it and never came across it.

The capstone, of course, was the Frank Lloyd Wright building, which I found at the end of the park. The building is pretty big, so I took my time walking around inside. I sat in the lobby for a while, and felt that I got closer to the actual interior than I may have in American museums.

Overall, it was a great day. I couldn't do a daytrip like that every weekend, but I am glad I went and give it the thumbs up.

Some Highlights:
- The St.Francis Xavier's Cathedral: a giant, stone cathedral moved from Kyoto. I was actually a little bummed that they had relocated the cathedral; it reminded me a LOT of the church that I grew up in
(Nativity) and I am sure mass would be beautiful!
- The Kanazawa Prison buildings (label might
be wrong in the pics? - the Maebara prison ward was also there) were awesome. - Places like the Tokyo Grand Station Police box and an original lamp from the stone bridge at the Imperial Palace (Tokyo), imported from Germany, were a little shocking to come across.
- I didn't see the horses, but there was at least one stable, as well as Meiji-era hospitals with original nurses uniforms and the original Red Cross hospital beds (with bedding).
- They even had imported foreign buildings from the Meiji era, built by Japanese people abroad. This included the Japanese Immigrant's Assembly Hall from Hilo, Hawaii (sort of like a little Ellis Island for immigrants to Hawaii). Inside the Hawaiian building, I found pictures and information about Joseph Haco, one of the first immigrants to America and the man who brought the newspaper to Japan. He is actually from Harimacho, the town next to where I live. The funny thing is that I recognized the pictures before I saw the article because the originals are at a history museum near my apartment that I have been to a few times this year.
- The music being played over hidden loudspeakers throughout the park (also period-specific, of course!) was enchanting.
-All of the cute, young couples and girls in yukata, out for the festival, made for such a fun setting. I think the place was busier than it normally is because of the event, but it was cool to see all of the different colors and patterns on the yukata. If I didn't live in Japan (and see yukata at every other summer festival), I think I would have thought Meiji Mura was a cross between Epcot Center and a Japan exhibit within Disneyland!

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