Golden Week - Beppu

I ran into Mozel, my buddy from the trail, at the ferry this morning. We both checked in for out boats to Kagoshima and decided to run to the nearby Cultural and Environmental Center to check out the museum and watch the IMAX film about the island while we waited for our boats. While we walked around the museum, I actually considered changing my boat ticket to stay another day, but decided not to considering:

a) the bad weather (rain, rain, rain),
b) the nearly booked ferry schedules (and possibility of cancellation with all that rain?), and
c) the fact that more time in Yakushima would mean less (or no) time in Beppu.

....and since, for me, going to Beppu equals relaxing in the hot spring for hours... something I really want and need right now... that last option was out of the question!

I would love to come back to the island someday, however, and also stop at Tanegashima, the island over. It supposed to be really great for diving and also the home of the Japan Space Center (as I mentioned before), but for now, it's just another time issue. I know, story of my life, but you never know where you'll end up... even if you've beenthere before!

Beppu
So I am finally in Beppu now. On the ride here, we passed ASO, the train stop in one of the towns that have sprung up in the crater of one of the giant old volcanos in the region. Aso-san (the Aso Volcano) remains active and is one of the highlights of Kyushu. I considered stopped for day to go to the summit (which is often closed because of the sulfur and gas) but the trains took much longer than I expected and I was in a solemn mood after finishing my novel, the Kite Runner, so I decided to just enjoy the (majestic, breathtaking) views from the train. I talked to a young French bank employee from Tokyo that had been to the volcano earlier today and hadnt been able to see anything, however, and I would be lying if I said that it didnt make me a little bit happy to hear that this wouldnt have been the best time to go anyways.


I haven't been in Beppu long or seen much yet, but I am already enchanted by this charming place and can tell I am going to love it. Yes, onsen towns can veer on the touristy-side, but there is also something unique and special about them... especially ones that mesh this traditional, Japanese culture with a larger city atmosphere. Walking from the station to my hostel, I passed men in yukata (cotton kimono) walking down the lit-up streets, presumably going from hot spring to hot spring in their robes, huge pachinko parlors and even a small shop selling Osaka-style takoyaki. I have probably seen 10 or 15 of these places in Kyushu so far, all with a giant red octopus outside and have been surprised to see it (Kansai pride shining through here?), I don't think its a chain, but I also had no idea Osaka takoyaki was actually that famous in other parts of the country.

I am staying at a place called Spa Hostel Khausan that I found my hostel on the Wikitravel page. After Yakushima, I think Ive learned my lesson not to gamble too much with finding a place to sleep at the last minute during Golden Week, but the crowds seem to be thinning out as people head back home for work on Wednesday and I got lucky with Beppu: when I called they only had one bed left, and only for a woman (whew!). The place is clean, in a great location, has a free hot spring bath (the town is famous for hot springs - why I am here). The other travelers here seem pretty cool and the place is huge so I think there are families staying here, too (both Japanese and foreigners). When I got lost along the way (directions can be hard to explain in Japan sometimes), the owner even biked to the park I was near and walked me to the door himself. Im impressed.


Tomorrow is my first (and ok, only) full day in town, but I am looking forward to it. The plan is to start by hitting the famous "hells" (hot springs too hot to bathe in but famous for their various colors), trying a sand bath (where you don a yukata and they cover you in hot sand), trecking out to the mountains to take a soak in the natural, non-commercial hot springs (you literally just put your stuff on a rock and hop in... not segregated, but hey, when in Rome), maybe trying out one or two other hot springs and - of course - pufferfish (yes, the potentially poisonous cullinary fare made famous by the likes of the Simpsons). If it sounds like a full day, youre probably right, but all the soaking also sounds so lovely and relaxing... I cant wait.

Speaking of soaking... I am going to take a bath before bed, so more updates later. Happy...whichever holiday today is (with four this week, Ive lost track!)... and goodnight from Beppu!