Brenda in Japan

Hailing from Minneapolis, Minnesota, Brenda McKinney is an American living and working in the Kansai region of Japan. This is an account of her life and adventures among the fine people of Nihon.

Monday, January 28, 2008

Train Etiquette

I had two interesting little run-ins on the train this weekend that I wanted to share, but didn't fit into the book of a "weekend review" I posted... so here ya go. Just consider it an extra dose of culture:)

If you visit Tokyo, one of the first things you'll notice about the trains (ok, other than that they are confusing, often packed like sardines and have women-only cars) is the posters on the walls explaining appropriate (and inappropriate) train etiquette. The Japanese take it very seriously, also shown by a recent essay one of my favorite students submitted, talking about how teenagers today are very rude on trains (blasting behavior such as talking, sitting in priority seats, using their phones, sitting on the floor, etc).

I have been repremanded or approached by strangers for talking on the train before (even for talking in a quite voice), as have many other expats I know here, but it often seems to be by people who want to say something in English and see it as an opportunity to approach the foreign girl.

Anyways, it happened again twice this weekend. The first time, I walked onto a Hankyu train and looked around. There weren't a ton of people, but most of the seats were full except for the section next to the door (the priority seats), which were basically all open. There was nobody else standing, so I decided to sit down as the train scooted forward. Then, suddenly, this little, old Japanese man sitting at the other end of the cushioned benches on my side of the car starts yelling at me; absolutely throwing a fit.  He is using the local dialect.  I cannot understand everything he is saying, but I understand enough.  He talking about how these are special seats and that I have no business sitting here and need to move immediately...in a rather load voice. I actually started to get up, shocked by the reaction, and then looked around and realized there weren't really any other free seats in the normal section, afterall... or anyone in need of my seat. The man saw me budge and got louder. I sat back down, turned over to him and politely told him in Japanese that there was nobody there (waiting)!   I mean, of course I would move if an older person needed the seat. He didn't say anything for the rest of the journey, but I am sure if he had a blog, his recent post would be about the inconsiderate foreigners who sit where they aren't supposed to.  Drama!

The second situation took place on Saturday night as we were making our way to the surprise dinner party. I had planned the dinner and told everyone to meet at a central place in Kobe about 45 minutes before the birthday girl was supposed to get to the restaraunt (so we could go over together). Well, we got ready, left, and then realized Hong forgot her wallet when we got to the station (it happens, no biggie).  Crap.  We were already pushing time, so once we went back to get the wallet, we knew we'd be late. 

The problem was that everyone else was on time at the meeting spot, but they didn't all know each other.  I told them we'd meet them at the restaurant, but I still needed to describe other group members to my friends who were already waiting so they could grab everyone. I was in the middle of doing this on the train (quietly, I swear) when the man next to me looks over at me and tells me in a stern, serious tone, "it's prohibited to use yor phone on the trains in Japan." 

Hmm, ok

I told him it was an emergency. He told me again it was prohibited, this time giving me a more serious glare. At this point, I calmly put the phone down, turned to him and said, "No.  It is very rude to use the phone on the train, but it is not prohibited. Gomenasai." (with a slight bow with my head). Well, he turned away and I didn't hear any more of it, but I bet that situation would have intimidated me enough to get off the phone when I first got to Japan and I can see it happening with other foreigners here (including with eating, talking, and yes, using the phone on the train). People aren't always chatty on subways in America, no, but talking is not "probited." Man.  Cultural divides... I have a better handle on the differences now, but it doesn't mean I accept all of them.

Yeah, so those are my train stories from the weekend, but they can be pretty common occurrences.  I think I am going to arrange a debate with my students this spring and I really want to use train etiquette as a debate topic, just out of curiosity to see how my kids feel about the subject...



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