Brenda in Japan

Hailing from Minneapolis, Minnesota, Brenda McKinney is an American living and working in the Kansai region of Japan. This is an account of her life and adventures among the fine people of Nihon.

Friday, January 11, 2008

Oh the Places You'll Go

It's already Friday afternoon. I have one more class today and then I've made it through my first week back after vacation. I've been told I look better than I did when I left, but I'm definately tired this week. I grew up going on "educational vacations" (not beach trips) and I've now been around the world on my own, so I am used to running around and looking at sights while I travel... but I have to admit that this last trip left me pretty beat. I wouldn't have thought it likely, but I would definately enjoy some relaxation time on the next big holiday (ok, or the one after Laos and Cambodia in March); Thailand last year was proof enough that it does the body good.

But, anyways, as I mentioned, I'm back in my good, ole desk at Takasago Minami High School and slowly but steadily getting back into full-swing. Not much has changed since last year, but it's been fun to talk to some of the kids about India (showed one class how to tie a sari and gave them bindis yesterday...which they all proceeded to put on their notebooks as stickers...hmm) and I'm excited to get my pictures organized and get an India/Nepal presentation together. The kids do seem a little more genki (energetic) after the holiday, too, but that can be both a good and bad thing. One girl got kicked out of my class today for talking too much (found I still very uncomfortable with the teacher screaming at a kid for 5 minutes in front of the whole class), but it's good to see the students and hear what they've been up to.
We also have a girl visiting from Australia, who has come to a few of my classes and I have been showing around a bit. It's nice to have another native speaker around and I think she likes getting the random little tipcs from me. Now that finals are over and the students seem to have more steam, I've been trying to direct my Japanese kids' energy into ways to approach the Australian exchange student (especially since she's here for two weeks), but that's been a bust, too... the Japanese students are just too shy and haven't talked to her much. Even when Emily, the Australian girl, came to my classroom for daily cleaning on Wednesday, the first graders that I introduced her to would only look at and talk to me... not her (and they wanted me to translate rather than practicing English with her). Well, you can't say I didn't try but it's also funny being on the other side of the fence; I remember when people were like that with me here. We'll see if it goes better next week.
Other than school, I'm just getting settled back in, trying rest up (Kelly got really sick on the last day and is home all week, so I am avoiding the same happening to me) and I've been reflecting a lot on the travel experience we just had. Now that I've had a few days, I guess I could share some of those thoughts on India....

Let me just start by saying that my first impression is that India is unique.

People always tell you India is like nowhere you've ever been, even if you've traveled a lot. This was, however, something that took me a while to come to a conclusion on. I was talking to a friend we met in Jaipur about this topic one day and we both agreed that it wasn't that different from other places we had been to in the Middle East (in my case) and Africa (in hers). But after some time, I think the characteristics sort of creep up on you, and you realize that it does stand out. Again, my introduction to this massive country was just in the north, so there are definately very different cultures in the south and in different states, but you can make some generalizations that hold true to everywhere.
At first sight, yes, the scene on the street looks a lot like the Middle East, but then you will see a few cows walking down the street and goats and pigs grazing on the garbage piles. Yes, garbage. It's everywhere. Bicycle and autorickshaws zoom past, nearly taking your right arm with them. Wild dogs and cats run by, carting their pups along with them. Women in beautiful, colorful saris stand out like jewels in the crowded streets, while some kneel over the blankets covered with the vegetables and beans that they are selling (or are busy sweeping the street in their gold jewelry - 16 pieces for married women). There is a strong love affair for film and the beats of Bollywood songs and MTV often grace cafes. Men sit in circles on the side of the rode, heating up tea pots over small, open fires and sipping their rich, sugary chai. It's candy for the senses.
Furthermore, another striking factor is langauge. The bilingual ability in India is remarkable. People naturally switch in-and-out of English and other native tongues (mostly Hindi in my encounters) on television and on the street, assuming it is understood, and doing it with such ease that it is as if it were assumed that everyone, everywhere just naturally spoke several langauges. It's just normal. Sound is a big part of India. Most travel journals and forums will recommend ear plugs (those stray dogs and cats do fight..loudly... and early), but walk around on any given day and you will hear the sounds of drums coming from small Hindu temples, praying for exotic elephant and monkey gods. Or maybe you'll come across the music of gypsies or munks on the street, competing with the unmistakable sound of wailing prayers streaming from the many mosques that dot city neighborhoods.
In one word, India has spirit. These are people who were abused and beat down again and again, but who never gave up (look at the Great Uprising in 1857, for example). But, ironically, while India is a country on the rise, with so much potential, it is also a place of almosts and maybes. My light skin and foreign appearance made me prey for scams and beggers, but this discrimination or disrespect was by no means exclusive to me as a foreigner. There is a lack of trust, not for the "outsiders" but for everyone, and people in India do it to each other. It's a paradox. They'll lie to a neighbor to get a deal, but then really be there for each other in ways that seem extrodinary (and simply don't seem present in more wealthy - maybe isolated? - societies I have gotten to know, like America, Japan and even Norway). Simple conflict resolution was put into place from the bottom level up. I never once saw a real fight, even though I saw the makings of one a few times. Someone would always step in to help two strangers sort things out. It's an interesting place.


We weren't in Nepal long enough to really get to know the people there (unless you count the Enrique Iglesias-singing boys that drove us from the border to Chitwan Park in the middle of the night... glad I didn't take them up on their offer to let me take the wheel... found out a few days later we were on the edge of a cliff!). I will say, however, that because Nepal is less touristy than India, there are less hassles for money and the people come off as kinder. We met some really funny and generally kind folks during our short sojourn in the country. While there are still many people that can't communicate very well, the English levels are high (even for people who grow up on the street), but poverty is also widespread. There was a large influx of hippes in the 60s and 70s, but today, most tourists come for the trekking or to volunteer. Like India, there's a lot of potential.

You know me, I could go on forever... I could (should?) write a book filled with whistful, wandering thoughts. But I'll stop here and leave some space for stories and pics to come. This is just the tip of the iceberg, but India definately gives you something to think about.
We were on the move a lot and I am tired, but in hindsight, I am really grateful for all the experiences we gained and especially for getting to know some of the people we in India. Hote and shop people aside, Kel and I made friends in two muslim guys on New Years (who came to our rescue after we were mobbed and molested by groups of boys whom the police beat off with sticks) that we ended up hanging out with again on our second trip to Delhi. Even after only a few days together, I know we'll definately keep in touch with and maybe see each other again. They even invited us into their homes to stay with their mothers...ha! We also spent several full days getting to know some very interesting characters that drove us around in their autorickshaws (called a "tuk-tuk" in SE Asia and India) to see the sights in various cities, and met various people (from everywhere) who haved traveled to some pretty out-of-the-way spots. We even met one family who tried to adopt us for a few days after spending time together on a 8-hour train ride from Jaipur to Agra. The mother couldn't speak English and didn't talk much (she was sick with cancer, but really like Kelly; she called her "daughter" and played with Kel's hair), but the two sons, ages 8 and 11, were very sweet and I had fun getting to know them.
My next big trip will be touring schools and volunteering in Cambodia this March through the Pepy Ride Program (
http://www.pepyride.com/) so I am looking forward to spending more time getting to know more of the people that live in these places I get to experience... and especially spending time with them.

I need to get to class and then do some work on my personal computer afterwards (the memory is almost full... and I really only use it for pictures, music, internet and some writing...yikes!!). I'm going to karaoke with friends tonight, doing a long run tomorrow (did one this week and, wow, my body hates me right now...this marathon in March is going to be a stretch) and hanging out near Osaka tomorrow night, so I'll probably be back with more next week. Until then.... there might be a little hold on the India stuff, but a huge T.G.I.F. and hope the new year is treating you well!

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