Brenda in Japan

Hailing from Minneapolis, Minnesota, Brenda McKinney is an American living and working in the Kansai region of Japan. This is an account of her life and adventures among the fine people of Nihon.

Saturday, May 05, 2007

Korea

Hello from Korea! Whew, I have a lot to catch up on. It's only been a few days but we have been running around like crazy. I'll try to keep it short(er).
Panstar Ferry
Joe arrived in Japan last Saturday evening. On Sunday morning, we met my American friend Brianne and hopped an afternoon ferry from Osaka, Japan to Pusan, (South) Korea. It was a long boat ride, geared toward the Korean passengers, but was better than expected. We slept in a small room with 3 bunkbeds (curtained area) and they provided evening entertainment. My favorite part had to have been the identical-twin russian musicians, the staff & guest talent shows (missed the sign-up for that one, but one very tiny, very old woman kicked some butt on karaoke) and the group of Korean break dancers. Our initial reception in Korea has ranged from extremely warm and friendly to cold and rude. I got wacked with a walking stick and shood away by two old men on the boat, but it's been better since we have gotten on land.
Straight off the Boat
Once we docked in Pusan, we checked into our hotel. We found it in the LP and are pretty sure it was a "love hotel", but it was ridiculously nice (which made it tempting to stay in the room all night). The bathroom alone was bigger than my apartment, but better yet, it was the cinema room, so either the TV or computer could be projected onto the small theatre screen on one of the walls. Seriously, though, maybe we actually should have called it a night earlier than we did?! While I slept OK on the boat (rocked like a baby), we must have been more tired than we thought that first day, because we took the subway the wrong way THREE times getting to the hotel and various places. Once you go in on one side of the tracks (in the subway system), you have to buy a new ticket to switch directions (probably because of the vendors trying to sell things like umbrellas on the cars who would ride it all day). It was a nuisance. I also noticed almost immediately that (while on the subways) we got a lot of stares from the locals, which is not that different from Japan, but here they will make eye contact with you (and hold it) rather than looking away when you catch them. A bit akward...takes a while to get used to.
Yosoko Pusan
Our original plan was to go to the world's largest onsen (hot spring) and relax for the first evening (since onsen originated in Korea), but we opted instead to visit Beomeosa Temple and the market for our first day. The LP called Beomousa Pusan's best sight (and they host temple stays), but I was not as impressed as I thought I would be. The bright colors were fun and refreshing (been visiting a lot of temples this year so good to spice it up), there was a big ceremony taking place in the main building and the grounds were large, but I felt like the 'wow factor' did not compare to, say, Nara or Kyoto.
If you're heading to Pusan and are short on time, you migh want to consider diving with the sharks, however (literally - at the Aquairium) and save the temple trecks for other cities. Then again, I will say that I think we found a good alternative to the onsens with our agenda because we might not otherwise have discovered Korea's superb street food (so soon) without the round-about adventure. My favorite culinary discoveries have been steamed corn cobs (on a stick), kimchi & "sweet balls", otherwise known as deep-fried glutenized rice balls with sugar. Actually, a lot of things are sweet, sold at stands & on a stick, so it is kind of like the state fair. The only thing I refused to eat and didn't like was the silk worm (yes, bug) soup.
I want my babyback, babyback, babyback...KOREAN BBQ!
After snacking on the street, we went for Korean BBQ (you cook the meat at your table) at a place near the hotel and were also happy to discover that most restaraunts will give you coffee and/or ice cream (for free!) when you leave. They also give you about 5 or 6 various side dishes (kimchi and others) with anything, so it's easy to eat a lot for cheap (our whole BBQ meal came to $8 a person - including beer). Everything at the place we went was really delicious, but it isn't a coincidence that Korean food is known for it's zing. The BBQ wasn't bad, but I will admit I'm definately the biggest spice wimp in our traveling threesome (can only take so much kimchi). Still working on it, though... it seems like the stomach could be a good place to start exploring a new culture...

I need to go, but I'll post pictures once I get them. One small warning - I look a bit different again. My hair is SUPER short (as in too-short-for-a-ponytail short)... still adjusting!

Quote of the Day:
"Do you know where the market is?" -Me asking people to help me with a map, as we're standing in the market (the markets look different than in China, OK???). Not my shining moment, but even worse that it was at the start of the trip - the phrase has become our new, yet on-going, inside joke... :-P

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