Brenda in Japan

Hailing from Minneapolis, Minnesota, Brenda McKinney is an American living and working in the Kansai region of Japan. This is an account of her life and adventures among the fine people of Nihon.

Wednesday, May 28, 2008

I didn't pack this!

Well, this was an interesting story... too hilarious not to share.

Nice one, Japan:

Airport bungle gives passenger $10,000 in drugs (from the Sydney Morning Herald)

An unsuspecting passenger who flew to Tokyo is carrying one million yen's worth of cannabis compliments of customs authorities after a bungled exercise involving sniffer dogs.

An officer at Narita International Airport yesterday stuffed 142 grams of the drug into the side pocket of a randomly-selected black suitcase coming off an overseas flight so that the animal could detect it.

"The dog couldn't find it and the officer also forgot which bag he put it in," a customs office spokeswoman said.
"If by some chance passengers find it in their suitcase, we're asking them to return it."

The 38-year-old officer was quoted by the spokeswoman as saying: "I knew that using passengers' bags (for sniffer dog training) is prohibited, but I did it because I wanted to improve the sniffer dog's ability."

He was reprimanded by the head of customs at Narita airport.

"This case was extremely regrettable. I would like to deeply apologise," said the airport's customs chief Manpei Tanaka.
The cannabis, which has a street value of one million yen ($A10,100), was in a metal box wrapped with newspapers.

Japan strictly prohibits both hard and soft drugs, with people imprisoned for possession of even small amounts of cannabis.


It's really weird that they just lost these drugs when the penalties for having them are so stiff here. In the eyes of the law, using pot is essential the same as cocaine and there are seriously consquences if you get caught. There was a foreign girl in my apartment complex about 6 years ago that was sent to jail (ended up with 4 months in solitary confinement) when customs "intercepted" a package that a friend from home had sent her containing marijauna. She didn't even get the thing - or allegedly know anything about the package! - and was imprisoned (and then deported).

Also, why in the world were they using real passengers' bags for sniff tests? I would also like to point out that these are the same people that held me up for over 20 minutes, questions me about drugs when I came back from Cambodia (where I was working for an NGO!). I think they have a few things to learn.

Monday, May 26, 2008

The Weekend Review: Adios to Adela

Well, my plans to see Heaven’s Bridge in Kyoto Prefecture were foiled, but I had a great weekend otherwise. Work party on Friday (really low key). Instead of the after-party, I headed to Amagasaki to hang out in the local “Cheers”-style izakaiya. This is seriously the place to learn if you want to improve your language skills. Don't think that would help my reputation if I actually was at a bar everything (fear I've got a little rep forming after I told the staff at work I spent the night outside and missed last train last week... I'm totally professional at work, but since those stories, they think I am a party animal...hahaha).

Saturday
Saturday brought with it lunch with Shannon (my Midwest galpal over in Shiga Prefecture) at a cute little organic place in Osaka and then goodbye dinners, drinks and a little dancing with friends in Kobe. The outing was technically in honor of my lovely friend Adela - who leaves this week - last time I’ll see her here! Dels was a refugee from Kosovo and is going back to the homeland for a big family reunion, following some serious traveling on the way there, but it’s hard to believe she’s not going to be here. As I have said before, life here is transitory, but I have to admit it still feels strange. I'm going to miss her a lot.

Sunday
On Sunday I had lunch at one of my fave eateries in the Osaka-area: the Costco food court (sadly, no joke). The food is cheap, HUGE portions and actually really good. The Bulgogi bake is the best and I resisted buying too much for once (kept it at granola, detergent & pesto, oh my!).

I finally saw the film Pan’s Labyrinth with Dave on Sunday evening. I've been meaning to see it forever, but I think I built it up too much anticipation and expected it to be more than what it was. Yes, the computer graphics were impressive and it was a moving story, but it reminded me of Atonement (which I didn’t love...want to read to read the book to give it another chance). Parts of the film also reminded me of A Very Long Engagement for some reason, and I found myself actually wishing I was watching that movie instead of Pan’s Labyrinth. I guess that says enough in itself, but sometimes you just need to be in the right mood for a flick.

Monday
I'm at my desk right now and it's a slow Monday morning again (have stuff to do but no class). I think I’m going to go grab an early lunch and take advantage of the BEAUTIFUL weather outside!

I really wish I could just go running right now, but I guess you should take what you can get. It’s getting really nice out, but the humidity is also starting to hit (a 45 min run leaves me drenched in sweat now... sort of gross), so I’m trying to do night runs. That being said, things are getting busier (performing AND presenting in the school culture festival, almost every weekend booked through July, etc, etc), so I’ll still accept ending my runs looking like I saw a sprinkler and couldn’t resist if it means I get to enjoy the weather.

I'll post more later, but just because it’s Monday...
here’s a little fun from Japan:
Nintendo's Domestic Market?
The Real Office - Japan Edition (SNL Digital Short)

Friday, May 23, 2008

Midterms, Enkais, Goodbyes and Another Outing

This week has gone by pretty quickly. We've had midterms, but I've been busy catching up wtih Advertising stuff, sorting out travel photos, getting back to people, catching up on my news, etc.

Ladies Lunch
Yesterday was the Ladies Lunch at school. For some reason I was feeling really dizzy all morning and almost skipped it to go home early, but I ended up staying and was glad I did. Between me telling stories and people asking me questions, I swear I talked more than anyone else there (and I wasn't even that hyper due to the headache), but it seemed like everyone understood the broken Japanese and I learned a bit about some of my coworkers. I really like all the women in the English department right now, too, and the new younger women (my age) are fun.

The girl that just moved into my apartment complex was actually telling tales of our bathtub situation, much to the astonishment of the other luncheon attendees. When I told them I didn't even have a shower until last year (and still have the furnace) they were pretty shocked. Good to know that isn't normal in Japan... or wait... maybe that is not good to know considering I'm still living in the bathroom stone age. I don't want to cough up the money to pay key money (a rather large - $2 or 3,000 "gift" to a new landlord) or pay for new tatami in my place if I move now...so C'leste vie, I guess. It was also sort of cute to hear some of the teachers talking about individual kids who accidentally called them "mother" and things like that.

The Bridesmaid's New Clothes
I went for a long bike ride to Akashi last night (a little less than an hour each way). The whole path was along the water - very soothing. The purpose of the trip was to get a dress tailored, but also to take advantage of the weather along the way. I left a little later than planned (got stuck working on something at school), but I made it just before the tailor closed. It was this adorable old lady who was rather bemused by my tailoring requests (I am gonna guess she doesn't get many pear-shape figured girls in her shop...) and who I was even able to bargain with. The price she quoted me for the tailoring job was already a bit cheaper than it should be, but I got her to knock off another 20% witha smile and a little broken Japanese. She assured me about 3 times I was getting a really good deal, but I think we both had fun with the bargaining (it's like a game) and I think I'm getting my dress tailored at a really good place for a lot less than it would cost me in the states.

When I got back last night, I met some friends for din at Tenshin (the place with the old ladies) and then hit up the local supermarket with them afterwards. It was nice to stay in the neighborhood and I had fun hanging out with some people I haven't spent time with for a while. The night before, I went for a run, relaxed for a while and then met up with another friend to just hang out and chat in a park we used to go to after Japanese class. It's been a long time since I had been there, which is funny to say about something that I have done in Japan. I guess I have been here a while.

Tonight is another department party and tomorrow is another going-away party for a friend who is leaving Japan. This is the first one of my closer friends to leave and it's pretty sad, but you have to expect as much as an expat. On Sunday, i might be going to Amanohashidate (literally "the bridge to heaven"), a sandbar in Kyoto-Prefecture that is supposed to look like it's going into heaven when you turn your back to it, look through your legs and see it with the clouds reflecting on the water on either side. I would say the whole thing sounds kind of funny, but the place is one of the "three most famous sites" in Japan... so you have to go, right?! I think it would be nice to rent bikes and have a picnic (especially since there's not much else to do once you've hiked up and bent over). Fingers crossed that the weather forecasts really are going to be nice!

I should go if I want to run (trying to get back into it... but it's going very slowly!). I probably won't be able to blog again before next week, but hope all of you are well and safe! Cheers :)

Monday, May 19, 2008

The Weekend Review: Tin Roof...RUSTED.

I'm working on a video for my best friend's wedding tright now (surprise for the groom... gonna be cute). We are in the middle of midterms at work, which means some extra down time for moi (at last until the grading starts), but I seem to have a lot to do suddenly.

This weekend was another good, but busy one. I was actually just going through my itinerary from the past few weeks and realizing just how busy things have really been. Just looking back on the last two weeks, I was home (in my own bed) for one night the week before last (and I was packing that evening) and out or traveling every other night. Then I didn't really have a weekend (literally was in meetings), got home from Tokyo on Tuesday and was on the go again in my area for the rest of the week. This past weekend was full, as well. I'm not complaining, but I need to slow down a bit and take a breather. It's been intense.

I have plans tonight and J-class tomorrow, but I am already looking forward to doing NOTHING on Wednesday! I thrive going at 150mph, but must admit I am seriously starting to appreciate the art of relaxation. With so many friends leaving Japan, some travel plans (including Kristin's wedding in Minnesota!) and working with orientation, I will probably be on the move through the summer, but foresee a slower fall after that. I am working on keeping a good balance here (zen...), but I guess that just also means a lot of things on the blog to keep up with for you guys! ;-)

Friday
So speaking of J-class (Japanese class, if you're not used to that abbreviation of all things Japan), Friday was my first lesson at the Hyogo International Association. They offer really great Japanese classes for free, but the only catch is that it takes me at least an hour by train to get to them (which is also not cheap). I had missed the first two classes due to my Tokyo business trip, but was able to jump right in and was really impressed by the teacher and lesson. We also got homework... which I NEED!
You know, I came here so determined to learn Japanese. I discovered quickly, however, that studying kanji for 4 hours a day really isn't my thing (some people can do it... I tend to think they're a little weird to crazy, but then again, they are probably fluent by now) and that those that had intensive grammer training (like college courses) prior to coming here had a massive advantage. Learning is still important, however, Japanese can be fun and I can't express enough how important communication is to improving your standard of living in another country. So I'm back on the J-bandwagon (see how that J- thing works...) and am going to give the classes another try. I just wish I had taken more initiative in taking control of my language education earlier on and been firm with what works and doesn't for me... I would have been in better classes and found a better structure earlier.

The class I am in now is really interesting and I think it's a good level. I was the only westerner in the course, which was refreshing, and it was exciting to be in an environment where many people shared Japanese as our common language. Most of the class members were Chinese, followed by a few people from the middle east (Iran, Tajikistan) and at least two people were from India. The indian woman I sat next to has been here three years with her husband and mother while another guy I met came last summer. Some people learn faster than others; some have had to for survival (then others, like me, could probably get by without learning much of anything). I don't actually know if there were any other teachers in the course. Sort of a refreshing change and I find myself looking forward to spending more time in that diverse environment (outside of my already somewhat diverse environment - at least compared to Minnesota or other places I have lived). It's good.

After class, I met Dave at the Polo Dog (good burgers) and then headed back home. My classes are only one stop away from Sannomiya, but it took me forever to get to Kobe... going to have to explore faster ways to manuever my way around that 'hood.

Saturday
Saturday morning was pretty full with the old ladies. Instead of taking the train to meet them, I decide to bike to Okubo (only about 30 minutes each way). It was nice to get some outside time in on such a beautiful day... not to mention a little exercise. I hate to admit it, but I'm still not fully back into the running routine. I go sometimes and I love it when I do, but it's hard to get back into the same routine when you fall out of it. Working on that.

After the ladies, I stopped in Harimacho for a bit to hang out with Kelly. In the evening, I headed to Kobe for a birthday dinner at Sky Buffet (ahh, Sky Buffet... maintain that that place has the best view of Kobe anywhere, not to mention a decent buffet and the fact that you can mix your own drinks). Kenny, the birthday honoree, had to head home shortly after dinner, but I went to karaoke with a group for about an hour (hence the B52-inspired title of this post) and then Polo Dog (yes, again... I'm telling you, good burgers). Unfortunately, we thought we had more time until "last train" then we actually did (completely missed it).
As we were discussing where we would have to spend the night (a manga cafe, love hotel, capsule, bar, business hostel, regular hotel...you name it...), I stopped to just ask a taxi how much it would be to drive all five people in my little crew back to Amagasaki... thankfully, we got lucky. The driver quoted us a fare for a fraction of what it should have cost because the guy really wanted to practice English and it was a special kind of cab (and it was the type you rent for a day or for private excursions like business), so we quickly hopped in and made the long drive back. Metcha kucha!! Have to stop this missing-the-last-train foolishness, but I guess it makes for a good story, at least.

Sunday
Sunday morning was nice. Had brunch and watched part of the Godfather (need to finish it... still have never seen it, but finally know what it means when men say they're going to the mattresses). Lena was hosting another softball game at Shimizu High School in the afternoon, but between dropping off a video at Tsutaiya (basically the Japanese equiv. of Blockbuster) in Sannomiya and just sitting on trains for forever, it took me almost two and a half hours and I was well over an hour late. Argh, yapparina.... Despite my tardiness, we still got some good game time in, I had a LOT of fun with my friends that were there (especially Shag, who I realized would make a handsome Rastafarian after seeing him in glasses and a rasta hat) and we ate a delicious dinner at the okonomiyaki joint down the road at night. Then I just took a bath and read for a bit before bed (which I sort of think is the perfect end to a weekend).

Anyways, I have to get going (Kyoto Sensei ga kihatta... eek), but hope you all had a lovely weekend as well.

ps - Tokyo Marathon. 2009. The date has been announced, but the registration lottery has not opened. I'm waiting...

Thursday, May 15, 2008

News, Hair & Sigur Ros... not much new

I was really annoyed and frusterated in the morning, but the picture thing ended well yesterday. I decided to take the creative approach and make some new friends in the neighborhood by stopping by the beauty salon next to my school during lunch and asking if I could use their hair straightener. It sounds vain, but I am not kidding that my hair looked like a mop!

At first the woman working there thought I wanted some straightening treatment (I think?) and told me it'd be $20-30, but I explained that I only wanted to use the straightener and could do it myself in 5 minutes. I told her I worked next door, it was picture day and I hadn't known and my hair was ugly. That and a smile and it was a piece of cake. I got a chuckle out of the lady (definitely think I gave her something to tell her friends), but the woman was super sweet and let me use her professional iron for $5 (which I then didn't have to pay in the end). Score.

Anyways, the salon and my school are sort of in the middle of a residential area, and the business is actually attached to the owner's house, so her family came out to see me doing my straightening thing, too. Her two-year-old daughter was riding around on this little broom, pretending she was KiKi (from Studio Ghible's KiKi's Delivery Service). She was absolutely adorable and I tried to talk to her a little bit, but she was rattling off Japanese too fast and I couldn't catch all of it. Super cute, though, and we bonded over liking Ghible flicks :)

Conflict and Watching Your Attitude at Work
There were some other things that happened yesterday after not knowing about the pictures, though, and I left work pretty promptly when I realized the lack of sleep - and my state of being extremely annoyed by the lack of information - had put me beyond being in a sour mood. I actually sort of snapped at my colleague, which I have literally never done, stopping him in the hallway and asking him, "Seriously, nobody tells me anything! What is going on?!" There were no bad words inserted in there and I know people have done worse, but the guy is always so nie to me and I said it VERY slowly and with an angry look. He looked shocked. I apologized today and I know that comment was not so appropriate in this work culture, but at least they know how I feel about being left out of the loop(for better or worse). Communication is generally not a problem at my office and maybe the recent gaps will go away... but that coworker still looks a bit scared of me today. Hmm.

News
Ok, onto a random note. Can I just say that the world headlines seem so depressing today. To answer some questions, no we didn't feel the earthquake in China where I am (or was in Tokyo), but I have been following along with the devestating news and horrific death toll updates along with everyone else online. I was also just reading about the bombs in Jaipur, India, which jolted me a bit. Eighty were killed. Kelly and I spent a few days there (actually a few days longer than we originally planned because we loved the charasmatic, beautiful, little blue town so much) just four months back. It's hard to imagine it being bombed and destroyed right now and my heart goes out to those that were injured or lost people.

Sigur Ros
While I was surfing the news and catching up on stuff, I saw a note about Sigur Ros touring America. Love that band, so I checked their website to see if there were any upcoming Japan tour dates. None. And no dates that I could make in America this summer. Bummer. That being said, I am really glad I went to the website to check it out because I was totally blown away. Love the simple design and it's really easy to use, but even more than that, they have some really cool info posted. Check this out...

For example, they actually have a link for a general icelandic pronunciation guide (so you can sing along) and translations of the lyrics, including a section on accent. Dude, no wonder these people (yes, all 230,000 of them) have preserved their langauge and heritage so well. They take this seriously!

The FAQ section is also really funny and actually interesting. Like, what does 'sigur rós' mean?:
sigur rós translates directly to 'victory rose'. sigur rós was named after jónsi's little sister, whose name is sigurrós (without a space). sigurrós is a fairly common female name in iceland. you can find more translations here.

Anyways, that is enough free advertising for bands today, but thought I would mention it.

I need to get some National Council "homework" done and have a full afternoon of classes, but I think I'm heading to the local okonomiyaki shop for dinner (Tenshin - literally won awards for the best Akashiyaki and it's run by these old Japanese women that don't speak English... I LOVE IT!). Then maybe I will consider actually getting more rest for once! I hope all if you are doing well and thanks for listening to the rants :) Peace out.

Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Yearbook Pictures

Oh nooooo! I just got to school, still really tired from the weekend and wearing a black, long-sleeve cotton t-shirt. No eye makeup today (and a messy mop of hair since I forgot my straightener in Tokyo).

I walk in, sit down at my desk and the morning staff meeting starts. And guess what I just found out.... today is staff picture day!?! What?! Are you kidding me?

The last day was rained out and I know I have been gone for a few days, but I am seriously annoyed nobody informed me. I don't think they do retakes and I am not looking forward to this glossy 2x2 being these peoples' reminder of me for the rest of eternity. Don't expect the pic to be posted :-P

The Weekend Review: Back from Tokyo

I just got back from an utterly exhausting but interesting, exciting and fun five days in Tokyo. Before you go searching the side bar for pics (erm, yeah... they're still being uploaded but a little slow on the posting...), I'll just warn you it was mostly meetings and workshops (with little/no time for sightseeing, so unless you want to see me in the power suit - hot - or pictures from government and random dinners in Shibuya and Roppongi, there's not going to be much to view.

A few weeks ago, I was elected to the national council of the organization I have been working with over the last year (charity gigs). When I first ran, I knew I would be getting involved on a broader scale, but (in hindsight), I really had no clue what I was getting into. Along with the 11 others on the committee, we will be planning orientation events for thousands of people this summer, as the Advertising Liaison, I'll get to work with some pretty huge, but wicked, companies on getting funds for this non-profit and today I attended my first Opinion Exchange with the three ministries responsible for the future of the Japanese people (yes, education) to present the results of recently conducted surveys of life and working (in education) in Japan. I am quite honestly a little frustrated that pretty much nobody knows how much this committee actually does (including myself...), but at the same time, I am really excited for the challenge and am looking forward to changing that fact and getting my feet wet.

I headed to the Tokyo-area on Friday with a friend from my prefecture (the new webmaster) to stay with his friend in Saitama Prefecture. It was a fun night. The guy we stayed with was really nice and a lot of fun. I definitely learned more from one night in his living room about anime than I think I had in the last 2 (no, 26) years, but it was a good time.

On Saturday, we headed into Akasaka to meet up with the rest of the council for a full day of workshops with dinner at the Pink Cow (awesome little place near Shibuya with a great dinner spread and pics of unsuspecting - ok, passed out - Tokyoites plastered to the walls). Sunday was another full day of meetings, followed by a slightly-less-expensive-than-Norway dinner of Ultimate drinks and huge burgers at T.G.I.Fridays (shout out to Carlson... pride runs deep) and more run-throughs for Monday's meetings. Monday and Tuesday meetings at the government headquarters were pretty intense and, being new, my only real duties this round were transcribing and observing, but I was totally blown away by my predecessors and think the "discussion" went well. The conference room we were in also overlooked the Diet building (parliament), Prime Minister's residence, Tokyo Tower, and the kicker for me, the Royal Palace, which I have been around twice before, but is closed to the public (so the aerial view was a treat... love it!). I also found a little German bakery near the hotel early this morning, which I was pretty pumped (seriously been craving pretzels for a few weeks now), but it was sort of crap. I'll be back, though, so it'll be fun to get to know another neighborhood of Toks a bit better before this Japanese chapter of my life closes.

It was tempting to stay in Tokyo a bit longer, but I was tired and had a long trip home, so I took the bullet train home shortly after we finished. One of my girlfriends here is actually moving back to America on Sunday (SUNDAY) so we met for a girls night, but it was also a little strange doing the first of the goodbyes tonight. It can be hard moving anywhere, let alone a foreign country, and being away from your familiar support and social networks. While some people will always just be a priority and hold a lot of meaning in your life - even with distance - I've become so comfortable with and come to love some people here a lot. A lot of us are going to be splitting up sooner than it feels like (mostly to be living on different continents) and it's going to be sad recognizing that and doing our final sayonaras. Yes, it's easier to keep in touch now with the internet and stuff, I've done this before and I now have a lot more reasons to visit people all over the world (or people all over the world that have a reason to come visit)... but it still sucks.

I'm really tired and need to get to bed (back to the old grind tomorrow), but definitely a good week/weekend.

Australia 101

A girlfriend of mine in Japan, originally from Perth, just shared this educational piece with me and I thought it was worth posting. Bloody brilliant... can't wait to visit this wacky place (probably next winter!). Enjoy ;-)

Australia: The Confusing Country

Australia is a very confusing place, taking up a large amount of the bottom half of the planet. It is recognizable from orbit because of many unusual features, including what at first looks like an enormous bite taken out of it's southern edge; a wall of sheer cliffs which plunge deep into the girting sea. Geologists assure us that this is simply an accident of geomorphology and plate tectonics, but they still call it the "Great Australian Bight" proving that not only are they covering up a more frightening theory, but they can't spell either.

The first of the confusing things about Australia is the status of the place. Where other land masses and sovereign lands are classified as either continent, island, or country, Australia is considered all three. Typically, it is unique in this.

The second confusing thing about Australia are the animals. They can be divided into three categories. Poisonous, Odd, and Sheep. It is true that of the 10 most poisonous arachnids on the planet, Australia has 9 of them. Actually, it would be more accurate to say that of the 9 most poisonous arachnids, Australia has all of them. Though, there are curiously few snakes, possibly because the spiders have killed them all. Even the spiders won't go near the sea. Any visitors should be careful to check inside boots (before putting them on) under toilet seats (before sitting down) and generally everywhere else. A stick is very useful for this task.

Strangely, it tends to be the second class of animals (the Odd) that are more dangerous. The creature that kills the most people each year is the common Wombat. It is nearly as ridiculous as it's name, and spends it's life digging holes in the ground, in which it hides. During the night it comes out to eat worms and grubs. The wombat kills people in two ways: First, the animal is indestructible. Digging holes in the hard Australian clay builds muscles that outclass Olympic weightlifters. At night, they often wander the roads. Semi-trailers (Road Trains) have hit them at high speed, with all 9 wheels on one side, and this merely makes them very annoyed. They express this by snorting, glaring, and walking away. Alas, to smaller cars, the wombat becomes an asymmetrical high-speed launching pad, with results that can be imagined.

The second way the wombat kills people relates to it's burrowing behavior. If a person happens to put their hand down a Wombat hole, the Wombat will feel the disturbance and think "Ho! My hole is collapsing!" at which it will brace its muscled legs and push up against the roof of it's burrow, with incredible force, to prevent it's collapse. Any unfortunate hand will be crushed, and attempts to withdraw will cause the Wombat to simply bear down harder. The unfortunate will then bleed to death through their crushed hand as the wombat prevents him from seeking assistance. This is considered the third most embarrassing known way to die, and Australians don't talk about it much.

At this point, we would like to mention the Platypus, estranged relative of the mammal, which has a duck-bill, otter's tail, webbed feet, lays eggs, detects it's aquatic prey in the same way as the electric eel, and has venemous barbs attached to its hind legs, thus combining all 'typical' Australian attributes into a single improbable creature.

The last confusing thing about Australia is the inhabitants. First, a short history: Some time around 40,000 years ago, some people arrived in boats from the north. They ate all the available food, and lot of them died. The ones that survived learned respect for the balance of nature, man's proper place in the scheme of things, and spiders. They settled in, and spent a lot of the intervening time making up strange stories.

Then, around 200 years ago, Europeans arrived in boats from the north. More accurately, European convicts were sent, with a few deranged and stupid people in charge. They tried to plant their crops in Autumn (failing to take account of the reversal of the seasons when moving from the top half of the planet to the bottom) ate all their food, and a lot of them died. About then the sheep arrived, and have been treasured ever since.

It is interesting to note here that the Europeans always consider themselves vastly superior to any other race they encounter since they can lie, cheat, steal, and litigate (marks of a civilized culture, they say) whereas all the aboriginals can do is happily survive being left in the middle of a vast red-hot desert, equipped with a stick.

Eventually, the new lot of people stopped being Europeans on Extended Holliday and became Australians. The changes are subtle, but deep, caused by the mind-stretching expanses of nothingness and eerie quiet, where a person can sit perfectly still and look deep inside themselves to the core of their essence, their reasons for being, and the necessity of checking inside your boots every morning for fatal surprises. They also picked up the most finely tuned sense of irony in the world, and the Aboriginal gift for making up stories. Be warned.

There is also the matter of the beaches.

Australian beaches are simply the nicest and best in the entire world. Although anyone actually venturing into the sea will have to contend with sharks, stinging jellyfish, stonefish (a fish which sits on the bottom of the sea, pretends to be a rock, and has venomous barbs sticking out of it's back that will kill just from the pain) and surfboarders. However, watching a beach sunset is worth the risk.

As a result of all this hardship, dirt, thirst, and wombats, you would expect Australians to be a dour lot. Instead, they are genial, jolly, cheerful, and always willing to share a kind word with a stranger unless they are an American. Faced with insurmountable odds and impossible problems, they smile disarmingly and look for a stick. Major engineering feats have been performed with sheets of corrugated iron, string, and mud.

Alone of all the races on earth, they seem to be free from the 'Grass is Greener on the other side of the fence' syndrome, and roundly proclaim that Australia is, in fact, the other side of that fence. They call the land "Oz", "Godzone" (a verbal contraction of "God's own country") and "Best bloody place on earth, bar none, strewth." The irritating thing about this is they may be right.

There are some traps for the unsuspecting traveller, though. Do not under any circumstances suggest that the beer is imperfect, unless you are comparing it to another kind of Australian beer. Do not wear a Hawaiian shirt. Religion and Politics are safe topics of conversation (Australians don't care too much about either) but Sport is a minefield. The only correct answer to "So, howdya' like our country, eh?" is "Best {insert your own regional swear word here} country in the world!".

It is very likely that, on arriving, some cheerful Australians will 'adopt' you, and on your first night, and take you to a pub where Australian Beer is served. Despite the obvious danger, do not refuse. It is a form of initiation rite. You will wake up late the next day with an astonishing hangover, a foul-taste in your mouth, and wearing strange clothes. (Your hosts will usually make sure you get home, and waive off any legal difficulties with "It's his first time in Australia, so we took him to the pub." to which the policeman will sagely nod and close his notebook.) Be sure to tell the story of these events to every other Australian you encounter, adding new embellishments at every stage, and noting how strong the beer was. Thus you will be accepted into this unique culture.

Most Australians are now urban dwellers, having discovered the primary use of electricity, which is air conditioning and refrigerators.

Typical Australian sayings
- "G'Day"
- "It's better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick"
- "She'll be right"
- "And down from Kosiosco, where the pine clad ridges raise their torn and rugged battlements on high, where the air is clear is crystal, and the white stars fairly blaze at midnight in the cold and frosty sky. And where, around the overflow, the reed beds sweep and sway to the breezes, and the rolling plains are wide. The Man from Snowy River is a household word today, and the stockmen tell the story of his ride."

Tips to Surviving Australia
- Don't ever put your hand down a hole for any reason whatsoever.
- The beer is worse than you think, regardless of how bad you think it is.
- Always carry a stick.
- Air conditioning.
- Do not attempt to use Australian slang, unless you are a trained linguist and good in a fistfight.
- Thick socks.
- Take good maps. Stopping to ask directions only works when there are people nearby.
- If you leave the urban areas, carry several litres of water with you at all times, or you will die.
- Even in the most embellished stories told by Australians, there is always a core of truth that it is unwise to ignore.

See Also: "Deserts: How to die in them", "The Stick: Second most useful thing ever" and "Poisonous and Venomous arachnids, insects, animals, trees, shrubs, fish and sheep of Australia, volumes 1-42"

Wednesday, May 07, 2008

Une

This is my second day back from vacation and I think I already need another one. Crazy series of events!

Big Black Van
I had to jump right back into school, teaching a pretty full day (four classes, two new lessons plans and then English club - including planning our event for the upcoming Culture Festival... totem pole... yay...). As expected, I was already a little tired after pulling in on the last bullet train from Beppu the night before. I am generally one of those annoyingly optimist people who is not cranky too often, but when I was followed to the station I sort of let all the tired/cranky hang loose and had to snap at a few guys. They deserved it, though... was literally stalked by this black van with three pervy, long-blond-haired, 22-year-old Japanese punks yelling that they wanted to "sex me" - among other things - IN FRONT OF MY KIDS for the entire TEN minute walk to the train station. Not OK and I didn't want to put up with it, either, but I think just being firm, not giving them too much attention and moving on quickly is the best way to handle that sort of thing. I think it happens a lot to foreign women here (my friend has been flashed by old men a few times) and calling the police doesn't always help, but it was the first time it had happened to me.

My Night in the Beetle Town
During the evening, I headed to Kobe to meet peeps at The Hub (expat hangout that has a good Happy Hour) and then get some burgers at Polo Dog. I wasn't drunk at all and left at a pretty reasonable time, but the night turned into a much longer one than expected when I ran into an unexpected adventure.

Night owl that I am, somehow it's happened a few times before, but I basically fell asleep on the rapid train (NOT instantly waking up at my station this time... as any Japanese person seems to inherently know how to do) and woke up WAY past where I live, in a small town on the border of the next prefecture. When I woke up and realized it was about an hour and a half past my hop-off time, I jumped off at the first station before I got too far. Unfortunately, however, I probably should have stayed on. It was already past midnight at this point and after walking around town for a bit, I slowly came to the daunting realization that I was in the DEEP country - no hotels or konbinis (or cabs!) anywhere near- and the station was closing. Not a good discovery to make on a Wednesday night. So what is a girl to do? Look for somewhere to sleep.

I eventually found a suitable garden (yes, garden) and slept outside for the night. I had my windbreaker and gloves so it wasn't TOO cold, but I think next time I go "camping" it'd be wise to stick with the tents and sleeping bags :-P Luckily, the lack of street lights also prevented me from noticing the signs showing that the town was famous for large beetles, or I might have had more problems with the situation than I already did...

Tuesday, May 06, 2008

I love hostels

I just talked to a group of people teaching in Korea that came for the week. Apparently they got a 3-day Japan Rail Pass, which I didn't know you could do, and they absolutely love Japan. One American girl I talked to for a while kept going on about how much better everyone thought Japan is... so ironic since a lot of people in Japan are envious of people in Korea to some extent. They make more money for similar jobs that most foreigners do here (and cost of living is so low) and the culture can be more vibrant, the people more expressive (at least in public). Both money and formalities (which can be perceived as coldness) are things that many westerners tend to complain about - or mourn at least at some point - after living in Japan for a while. I guess the grass is always greener... somewhere. Even if your grass is already pretty green. Funny.

Since I have been sitting here, I have also seen 5 different people of different nationalities sit down and log onto Facebook. I guess the world is smaller than we think... or something.

Ok, I'm ranting... off for that soak!

Golden Week - Beppu

I ran into Mozel, my buddy from the trail, at the ferry this morning. We both checked in for out boats to Kagoshima and decided to run to the nearby Cultural and Environmental Center to check out the museum and watch the IMAX film about the island while we waited for our boats. While we walked around the museum, I actually considered changing my boat ticket to stay another day, but decided not to considering:

a) the bad weather (rain, rain, rain),
b) the nearly booked ferry schedules (and possibility of cancellation with all that rain?), and
c) the fact that more time in Yakushima would mean less (or no) time in Beppu.

....and since, for me, going to Beppu equals relaxing in the hot spring for hours... something I really want and need right now... that last option was out of the question!

I would love to come back to the island someday, however, and also stop at Tanegashima, the island over. It supposed to be really great for diving and also the home of the Japan Space Center (as I mentioned before), but for now, it's just another time issue. I know, story of my life, but you never know where you'll end up... even if you've beenthere before!

Beppu
So I am finally in Beppu now. On the ride here, we passed ASO, the train stop in one of the towns that have sprung up in the crater of one of the giant old volcanos in the region. Aso-san (the Aso Volcano) remains active and is one of the highlights of Kyushu. I considered stopped for day to go to the summit (which is often closed because of the sulfur and gas) but the trains took much longer than I expected and I was in a solemn mood after finishing my novel, the Kite Runner, so I decided to just enjoy the (majestic, breathtaking) views from the train. I talked to a young French bank employee from Tokyo that had been to the volcano earlier today and hadnt been able to see anything, however, and I would be lying if I said that it didnt make me a little bit happy to hear that this wouldnt have been the best time to go anyways.


I haven't been in Beppu long or seen much yet, but I am already enchanted by this charming place and can tell I am going to love it. Yes, onsen towns can veer on the touristy-side, but there is also something unique and special about them... especially ones that mesh this traditional, Japanese culture with a larger city atmosphere. Walking from the station to my hostel, I passed men in yukata (cotton kimono) walking down the lit-up streets, presumably going from hot spring to hot spring in their robes, huge pachinko parlors and even a small shop selling Osaka-style takoyaki. I have probably seen 10 or 15 of these places in Kyushu so far, all with a giant red octopus outside and have been surprised to see it (Kansai pride shining through here?), I don't think its a chain, but I also had no idea Osaka takoyaki was actually that famous in other parts of the country.

I am staying at a place called Spa Hostel Khausan that I found my hostel on the Wikitravel page. After Yakushima, I think Ive learned my lesson not to gamble too much with finding a place to sleep at the last minute during Golden Week, but the crowds seem to be thinning out as people head back home for work on Wednesday and I got lucky with Beppu: when I called they only had one bed left, and only for a woman (whew!). The place is clean, in a great location, has a free hot spring bath (the town is famous for hot springs - why I am here). The other travelers here seem pretty cool and the place is huge so I think there are families staying here, too (both Japanese and foreigners). When I got lost along the way (directions can be hard to explain in Japan sometimes), the owner even biked to the park I was near and walked me to the door himself. Im impressed.


Tomorrow is my first (and ok, only) full day in town, but I am looking forward to it. The plan is to start by hitting the famous "hells" (hot springs too hot to bathe in but famous for their various colors), trying a sand bath (where you don a yukata and they cover you in hot sand), trecking out to the mountains to take a soak in the natural, non-commercial hot springs (you literally just put your stuff on a rock and hop in... not segregated, but hey, when in Rome), maybe trying out one or two other hot springs and - of course - pufferfish (yes, the potentially poisonous cullinary fare made famous by the likes of the Simpsons). If it sounds like a full day, youre probably right, but all the soaking also sounds so lovely and relaxing... I cant wait.

Speaking of soaking... I am going to take a bath before bed, so more updates later. Happy...whichever holiday today is (with four this week, Ive lost track!)... and goodnight from Beppu!

Fragile Yakushima

In 1993, Yakushima was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The first in Japan and rightfully so.

When you visit the island, the first thing you notice is gigantic, green-specked mountain peaks rising out from the clouds covering the island. Easily accessible from the mainland (and north of the Okinawan island chains), it is a favorite spot for hiking and outdoor sports. The entire island, circular in shape, is roughly 25k in diameter, but it includes the highest mountains in southern Japan. I know peaks at 2000m don't seem like much compared to the "Japanese Alps" (Nagano), but also remember that those mountains don't start at sea level.

I should also mention that Yakushima is a haven for onsen-lovers (just make sure you have a bike or a car to get to them) and boasts the world's largest-known cedar, said to be between 2,300 and 7,200 years old (the latter figure based on scientific methods, the former on "judging it by it's size").

So why visit the place (if it's not obvious enough)? I've personally been on a mission to make this trip south since I first heard about Mononoke Forest and was impressed in my follow-up research, but the several people I talked to about their reasons (for spending their Golden Week holidays on Yaku Island) said they had either been drawn to the island because of it's fame as a world-class diving/hiking location or that that they had also learned of it through the Ghible movie. I honestly didn't see many foreign tourists during my time, either, especially Americans or younger people, but I am sure many tourists also make the trip because of the island's status as a World Heritage Site (and what a place to explore, ne?).

Anyways, I learned during my time on the island that hundreds of years ago, the island locals used to consider the trees god-like figures. Then one entrepreneur realized that there was financial opportunity in the rich ecosystem and sold the idea of using the island's resources for the mainland's needs to the government. For the next few hundred years, the locals would be forced to cut down the forests, being Japan's main supplier of wood for shingles. The logging threat has been removed since the island has been under the protection of it's UNESCO and national status, but even the increasing volume of tourism (which I may be promoting here...hmm) can be a problem.

This article can give a better background and talks more about current threats and concerns, as well as efforts being made to further preserve the fragile ecosystem. It's interesting and well-written, so I hope you enjoy it too. This place is a treasure worth taking care of.

Monday, May 05, 2008

Princess Mononoke Forest


I spent the second half of the afternoon on separate trails, going through stretches of about 30 minutes or more without seeing another hiker. It was awesome. OK, and I know I said the paths are marked and paved over, but maybe I exaggerated a bit. As you can tell here, it's still pretty raw. Some of the stone paths you'll see were created hundreds of years ago by locals, lugging wood out of the forest for shingle-production, but you can generally always find your way with the small, pink strings guiding you.















I passed a few park rangers and guides (all with walkie-talkies) but at the end of the path (near the Mononoke Forest itself, it was mostly families). Hiking in Japan - even alone - is really fun. You should be realistic about your limits, because it can be difficult, but you won't be alone out on the trails... Japanese people love to hike. I love how decked-out the hikers get here, though (seriously go all out on the gear). Moreso, Japan has a certain level of hiking ettiquette that people seem to stick to. Everyone I passed nodded and gave me a konnichiwa. One cute family must have wanted to use English because after a hello, they all started to yell "I LOVE YOU!" after me... gave me a laugh :)


The forest was also the inspiration for Miyazaki's movie Princess Mononoke (もののけ姫). If you haven't seen it (or any of the Ghible flicks), here's the trailer... it's really good:

You can also click here if the video doesn't work!

The Ten Hour Hike

a.k.a. - One of the best hikes of my life

a.k.a. - Golden Week - Yakushima, Part II

a.k.a. - this trip is WAY too short!


These are seriously all suitable alternate titles for this post. Today has been wicked!

Hitting the Hills
While it might sound insane to leave for hiking at 5am (first bus outta town), I am glad I did!! I was one of the first people on the bus, and within three stops, people were already standing. Again... Golden Week! I sat next to a nice guy from Seitema who told me where we were headed (which happened to be exactly the path I wanted to start my hike from). A little research also went a long way, too. When we arrived at the starting point, Arakawa tozenguchi, I bypassed the lines of people waiting to fill out forms (you're supposed to fill something out and stick it in a box so the rangers know you're on the paths) and headed straight for the abandoned railroad tracks that would lead me half of the way to jomon-suji, the world's largest cedar tree. I know it might sound bad that I couldn't be bothered to wait for the forms, but risking getting stuck behind the tour groups is just too painful.

It was a little chilly in the morning and I definitely had to watch where I was walking. The views were stunning and i wanted to keep my eyes lifted, but there were some pretty big gaps in the paths (sometimes forcing you to only follow the metal rails on the train tracks) and I did not want to be the person to fall through... especially since I was hiking alone!

I battled the tours for a while in the beginning, getting stuck behind a group stopping to look at a certain plant or in places where it was impossible to get around the slowbies, but I eventually broke into the faster group and could go at a comfortable pace. I met another woman about my age (also dodging and winding around groups) who I started talking to. Turns out she was also traveling alone, from America and has been living in Tokyo for three years. I don't think either of us was out to make a new best friend, but it was fun to hang out with someone for a bit and chat about life (in Japan) and travels while we hiked along. I had brought along my own food and water in my daypack (basically just the top of my hiking bag), but the girl - Mozel - also showed me some streams where you could fill your bottle and we stopped a few times to look at the raging river below us or admire the trees. I had never actually done that before while hiking (maybe revieling how hardcore - or not - I really am here...haha), but it was good to learn some of the signs for which streams were OK and to know where I could get water if I ever come back (or go somewhere else) for a multiple-day hike.

So in hindsight, I have to admit the hiking trails I was on were some serious forest terrain and the island definitely deserves its designation as a World Heritage Site. That being said, however, I find it ironic that almost everywhere you go in this country, there is already a pathway established. You can go around it, but it's there if you need it. In Yakushima, you're still climbing a bit (later on, on a different path near Shiratani Cabin, I found much steeper trails without much/any guidance and where I was alone), BUT most of the time, there are going to be others around and/or a marked path to follow. This also gets into cementing the rivers. To some extent, I think they do it to protect the plants you would walk on (or sediment that could be destroyed in the rivers?), but another big part of me doesn't want to admit - but knows - that all this constructions happens just to build things. Enough ranting, though... back to the hike.
Wilsons Stump
So the path I decided to follow, Arakawa, goes to the world's largest cedar, in the middle of the island, via Kosugidani, an abandoned logging village beside the river, following an old railway track. Like any (increasingly) touristy place in Japan, this path is not without it's own star attractions. One of the most famous sites along the path in Wilson's stump, a giant tree stump that has been hallowed out. There was a small shrine inside, so I am not sure if people had just blessed it or if there was more religious significance to the site, but - to me - it just seemed like any of the other giant trees, only sawed off and resembling something that a Hobbit wouldn't mind habitating in. The stump wasn't too crowded on my way up (was past the groups by this point), but the open area around it had been transformed into a virtual picnic site by the time I was making my way back down the same path.
(note: these pics show the stump from the outside and me on the inside)
To Jomon-Sugi... and Beyond!
So the books said the hike would take 5 hours up and 5 back, but I couldn't believe it when I reached the tree in just over 3 hours. Mozel and I took some pictures and stopped for lunch (joined by a wild deer who wanted some food, actually), but with the unplanned extra daylight hours, I decided I wanted to try to get to another area of forest. I know the one tree, Jomon-Sugi, is famous (it's between 2,000 and 7,000 years old!), but the whole area was honestly indescribably beautiful. Giant trees, clear streams, wild animals running around and moss covering everything. The area was forested by the Japanese government for shingle (yes, roof shingle) production a few hundred years ago, but a lot of the sugis (trees that are over 1,000 years) still remain and guard over you with an impressive and intimiating presence. How could you not want more? (note: here's a pic with part of Jomon-suji in the background... you can't walk up to it anymore - only take pictures from a platform - but I was satisfied with being able to feel the other suji's and was definitely impressed by this giant monster of a tree)
I've read travel logs and reviews of Yakushima hikes calling the path I took "incredibly monotonous " but I have to disagree. Granted, the section of train tracks really doesn't offer that many sweeping views compared to what I have heard about other areas of the island (that are less visited and still accessible), but if you get the area on a nice day - and preferably not during peak tourist season (eek!) - it's incredibly beautiful, relaxing and thereputic.
And the Good Keep Going...
Mozel decided to keep going forward on the same trail (you can go for about another hour or so in a loop), so we said our nice to meet you's and goodbyes and both headed in our respective directions. It was a bit tricky sharing the path down with all the tour groups (still making their way up...slowly, but surely), but I made it! And, with the help of a random hiker's map, I found my way to Mononoke Forest...
Sidenote - Don't Feed the Animals
Yakushima is famous for it's wildlife, but thought I would add a littel extra note/warning/reminder about why it is important to keep the life wild on this island. While Mozel and I were having a little picnic brunch (after seeing Jomon-sugi), this deer wanders over to us and starts begging for food! I started feeding him some rice out of the palm of my hand, when a park ranger walked by and got really angry that I was feeding the deer. And I realized he was right. The reason the deer is so comfortable approaching people (most of the others ran away - and there were a lot of them) is because of hikers like me, interfering with the natural habitat of these animals. It gets dangerous when these animals become too dependant on hikers, though, and they can also become aggressive (which you know if you've ever visited Nara or Miyajima). So... Let's working together to keeping Yakushima safu!

Golden Week - Yakushima

Getting to the Island and Unbelievable Kindness
The beginning of the boat ride to Yakushima was slow. The whole trip from Kagoshima to Yakushima (via Tanegashima - home of the Japan Space Center) took less than 2 hours, but it seemed like much longer before the banks of the mainland (including the large volcano that looms over the water) even disappeared from site.

The boat reminded me alot of the ferry we took to get to Koh Samui in Thailand, just a lot more quiet and very clean. I chose the upper deck and was assigned a seat near the window. A businessman in a black suit slept in the seat next to me while most people just the nature show on the large, flat screen television in front of us. I had hoped to go outside while we were in the harbour, but it wasn't allowed.

During the trip, large waves shook the other ships as I watched - without luck - for the famous flying fish of Yakushima to appear.

When we arrived on the island, the information desk was already closed. I had a hostel reservation for the second night at Miyanoura Portside, but nothing for the first, so I decided to stop by the same hostel to see if they had any cancellations for my first night. The place was just a short walk from the port, but I stopped on the way to ask directions from a woman out walking her dog, now knowing how lucky it would be that I had stopped to ask her.

It turned out the hostel, as well every other hostel and hotel in the area, was full. Actually, it was the case on most of the island (literally must have called at least 8 places in addition to the ones I went to... ippai ippai ippai!).

I put down my bag near the road, took out my books and maps and started to consider spending a night outside (trying to ignore Lonley Planet's warning about the snakes!) when the woman with the dog whom I had talked to earlier walked past.

I had 2 of the big maps spread out on a bench, along with the Lonely Planet and my cell phone out, so the lady stopped to see where I was going now, seeminly surprised I wasn't at the hostel she had directed me towards a good a hour or so before. In very broken Japanese (but Japanese!), I explained the situation and she walked with me to a local hotel. They were unsurpringly booked, too, but then the greatest thing happened.

We stood and talked for a long time (me, the woman and the hotel owners) trying to figure out where I should go (they didn't seem to think camping without a tent was as good of an idea as I did), and the owners mentioned they had a cabin in the moutains for rent. They warned me that it wasn't quite a hotel, but it did have a bed with a bathroom and shower and they could bring me there. The woman (with the dog) volunteered to pick me up the next day. Then they asked me questions about my plans, and when I told them I was climbing & hiking the next day and hadn't ordered a box lunch for the trip yet (gasp... not very Japanese of me!), they brought out pictures of different lunches and asked me what I wanted.

And that's how I ended up sharing a (really nice!) cabin with a bunch of BBQing scuba divers - in the mountains- on my first night on Yaku Island. I had to be up early the next day (no really, 3:30 am since the woman with the dog was picking me up at 4 so I could catch the first bus to the hiking trails!).

Golden Week - Checking in

Wow, I went hiking for 10 hours today and am having a ball!

I actually enjoy traveling alone (freedom to go and do what I please - also theraputic!), and even though I am the only foreigner at my hostel, I just had a really nice conversation with people traveling from all over the country.

Check out Yakushima online...the island is a UNESCO World Heritage Site... so beautiful! Anyways, just wanted to check in to say hello and let you know I am safe.

Off to Beppu tomorrow.

Golden Week - Kumamoto

It's Golden Week again, that wonderful time in Japan when four national holidays fall within a week of one another and pretty much the entire country goes on vacation. Last year, I celebrated the holidays (ok, or more like the free vacation days off from work) with a trip to Korea with Joe and Brianne. This year, I decided to visit the last major Japanese island I have yet to see: Kyushu. We sort of got shorted this year, with two of the holidays falling on a Saturday and Sunday, but it's a four-day-weekend none-the-less, and I decided to make the most of it.

I put in a full day on Friday, leaving work a little later than I planned to, and headed straight for home to grab my hiking pack and hit the Shikansen station. My plans for the weekend were originally just to get to Yakushima, an island of the southern coast (in Kagoshima-ken) and Japan's first UNESCO World Heritage Site (more on all this later), but when I was playing with the train times and realized how far of a trip it was going to be, I decided to break it up and stop off somewhere on my way to Kagoshima (the port city where my ferry left from on Saturday). Luckily for me, this also provided an ideal opportunity to visit some friends from the PEPY program in Cambodia living in Kumamoto.

Kumamoto is a medium-sized city and doesn't have a lot to boast beyond it's castle (one of the "three great castles of Japan") and the amazing ladies I know that reside there, but I am really glad I stopped.

Taking the bullet train is always an enjoyable experience for me (I even love waiting for my train to come and watching the others zoom past), but because it's Golden Week, I was a little naive with not considering how packed the trains were going to be. I didn't have any seat reservations and was able to nab a window seat in the beginning of the trip (the elevated view gave me one of the most stunning views of Awaji Island and the inland sea that I have ever seen!), but was standing or sitting on my bag for most of the four hour trip past Himeji.

Kumamoto
When I arrived in Kumamoto, my friend Jo picked me up and we drove to her house in the "country." It was a little surreal to see one of the PEPY heads outside of Cambodia (or rather, in Japan... a place both Jo and I temp. call home but don't know each other from), but we had a lot of fun just hanging out and talking in Jo's living room. She lives in an outer suburb of the city, in a rather new apartment complex, surrounded by rice fields, but also in a neighborhood and nestled between a vast mountain chain. We were also going to watch a movie I brought with, but by the time 3am rolled around and we were still talking, we decided it was time to hit the hey if we were going to see the Kumamoto Castle before my train the next day.

We got up early and had a big breakfast before driving into the city and parking in a lot near the castle. It was further from the station than I expected, so I was happy to be so close, and the castle grounds were more vast than I expected, so walking up to the main turret was not strenuous, but also the perfect distance for a little stroll on a sunny day.

Kumamoto Castle
As I mentioned earlier, Kumamoto is one of the "three great Castles of Japan" (they love their lists!), but the current structure is actually only about 40 years old. The original was burnt down during the civil war and further destroyed during a rebellion by the fuedal lord who at first supported the Meiji Restoration (westernization) and then reversed his opinion when he thought the movement had gone too far. The castle is smaller than Himeji and black in color (like Hikone), but it's still impressive and I grew excited when I saw it's outline ont he horizon as we entered the city.

Jo and I walked around the castle for a bit, checking out the view of the city and taking pictures with the local ninja and samurai (of course!), before I realized I was late for my train (erm, there was a reason I had two later train schedules with me...) so we had to go. I got dropped off at the station and we said a few quick goodbyes as I made my way to the train to Kagoshima.

Kyushu Sanyo Shinkansen
The surprising thing about the Kyushu train lines, or maybe just the Tsubame or Shinkansen, is that when I had to transfer halfway through, I just walked off the express and onto the Shinkansen on track over. No separate station! Not sure how that works with tickets, but I have a feeling it could change when the new Kyushu Shinkansen (bullet train, by the way) lines are completed in 2012. I was also really impressed that the Shinkansen was completely non-smoking. If you've ever been stuck in a smoking car on a long ride... you know why!

Kagoshima Port
After about an hour and a half, I arrived in sunny Kagoshima, the southern-most city on Kyushu Island. I had some time before my bus came, so I explored the shopping area a bit, enjoyed the sun and admired the large volcano that overlooks the town (actually on a nearby island and you can't go up because it's active) before hitching my ferry to Yakushima...

Friday, May 02, 2008

Friday and ready for GW

So I wrote on Monday that I had nothing to do. Well, somewhere between now and then I have been PELTED with bullet points on the agenda, to the point that I am actually really, really looking forward to a long train ride tonight… just so I can nap and relax alone for a bit. I have now been running a few times and my foot is better, but I am going to work it back into my schedule this spring (as I work my body back into shape…yikes). The alone, meditation time as I run outside is just so therapeutic and making it a priority keeps me from piling too many things on my plate (because you know I never do that… hmm, thought I had gotten better when I got here, but now I realize it’s just that I didn’t have a car to move around as fast… and I have since learned to compensate for the travel time).

This week has, however, flown by. Tuesday was a national holiday, so we didn’t have work. I stayed local and had a picnic with Dave. I’ve been raving about Fresco, the all-you-can-eat pizza & Italian place in Befu, for months now. Well, we tried to go once, but the place was being renovated. Tried to go again (after the renovation) and they had changed their closing time to 7pm (what restaurant closes at 7pm?!). Hmm, ok. Working on the hope that the third time would be the charm (if I had known better, I would chosen “three strikes and your out!”), we headed back again on Monday, and guess what... yep, closed! Well, they were open and there was food in sight, but the serving hours were over. I give up! I still think the sketchy second-floor kitchen and really weird hours (um, and amazing deal) signal a potential yakuza cover, but I'll leave it at that. At least it gave us a good excuse to eat near the river (just going to not get into how every river - yes every river - in this country now has a cement floor...).

The plan is to head out tonight for Kumamoto or Fukuoka via the bullet train before making my way to Yakushima for the weekend. I was going to do a few days in Beppu first, but am instead going to soak my achin' bones (from all the hiking I plan to do... YAY!) afterwards... I think. Updates from the road.... stuff to do now, but here's some stuff on Yakushima for your reading pleasure. I can't wait :)